I guess this is what you get when you don't flame treat?

GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
I'm doing "well trying to do" the plastic cover of my barbers hair cutting machine, as I just tried to scruff and paint I'm starting to understand the importance of flame treating. Or maybe it's just over activated so the base coat melts?

Out of the tank it looks good and then in the rinse tank it just melts and I can take it all of down to the naked plastic with my fingers.

Comments

  • airtimegrafixairtimegrafix Posts: 2,150Member ✭✭✭✭
    did you just dip to the raw plastic or did you paint it?
  • PTC_HydroGraphXPTC_HydroGraphX Posts: 1,109Member ✭✭✭✭
    If you painted it what paint did you use?
  • airtimegrafixairtimegrafix Posts: 2,150Member ✭✭✭✭
    cause im 99% sure its not hdpe!
  • GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
    Its painted first with a 2k automotive paint. Can't say the brand as it was painted with a color I hade in the shop " so it have worked before with the same color" and the second time I painted it with a hardener but still the same result. When I clean it with thinner it don't get sticky it just take away the paint. The photo where it's black it's after cleaning with thinner. So that's why I was thinking it needs to be flame treated. But if your 99% sure then maybe I need to verify a bit more. So I don't put the **badword** on fire haha.
  • airtimegrafixairtimegrafix Posts: 2,150Member ✭✭✭✭
    that's the problem! u cant use a 2k paint because it has a hardener in it and the film wont stick! u need to use just a base coat no hardener. then dip then 2k clear!
  • GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
    2k here in Colombia is paint and reducer. And the second time I painted was with the hardener but as it gave me the same result on the 2 I just don't know! And I have dipped on the same paint befor. Just not on the same plastic.
    The same film and same 2k paint. Just not plastic.
  • AlanAlan Posts: 193Member ✭✭✭
    Perhaps you should have used a plastic adhesion promoter before painting? My guess is it is bare plastic that had never been painted before.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 10,032Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator

    that's the problem! u cant use a 2k paint because it has a hardener in it and the film wont stick! u need to use just a base coat no hardener. then dip then 2k clear!

    That's not true. You can use 2k paint, you just have to dip (and also clear coat) before the paint closes. Normally within a few hours.

    In any case, you'll probably need an adhesion promoter for the plastic. Spray adhesion promoter, then paint, and dip within 8 hours, clear immediately following the rinse.
  • wicked_dipzwicked_dipz Posts: 564Member ✭✭✭
    Looks way overactivated to me.
  • Archer0545Archer0545 Posts: 806Member ✭✭✭

    Looks way overactivated to me.

    Me too. Easy to do on small parts.
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,415Member, Moderator El Moderator
    It seems like if it was a problem of not flame treating, the problem would be with the paint not adhering to the part, not the film adhering to the paint. 2K automotive paint will usually require some sort of primer/adhesion promoter before paint. Also, how long after painting was the dip? You'll usually need to dip and clear within about 8-12 hours from first painting with the automotive style paints.
  • GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
    I did use a plastic primer and then the paint. And I waited around one hour after paint. As its 35 degres Celsius here in Colombia I was confident the paint was dry. But I might be wrong. So it's not a subject of flame treat? Even as the plastic just rub off the thinner as water on a wet dog? @NotSoFast it fells and looks like it's the paint not sticking to the plastic as when I rinse it even the paint just come of with the help of my fingers. I'm gonna do one more try without flames today and if it's still the same outcome I'm gonna light the thing up.
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,415Member, Moderator El Moderator
    In my experience, if it was from a lack of flame treating, the paint would be chipping off similar to trying to paint a mirror or similar, not melting or rubbing off. But what do I know, I am no chemist. I have seen it happen on ATV fenders and such. The paint lays there until flexed or hit with something then a big piece just chips off the part.

    Is (or was) the part the same color all the way through or did it have some sort of paint/coating on the outside originally? If it was originally painted, then it would not require flame treatment.

    I am also going with over activation on this one.
  • Archer0545Archer0545 Posts: 806Member ✭✭✭
    It's not going to hurt anything to flame it, even if it doesn't need it as long as you don't melt anything. But go lighter with your activator and see if that helps.
  • GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
    I'll give it a nother go later today.
  • wicked_dipzwicked_dipz Posts: 564Member ✭✭✭
    The reason the paint is melting and sliding off is activator is basically the same thing as paint thinner The reason your film sticks is because the solvent allows it to etch into the paint. If you over activate its the same thing as pouring paint thinner on the part the paint will come off. If you have an item that paint is chipping off then thats poor adhesion your paint is not chipping off its melting off.
  • airtimegrafixairtimegrafix Posts: 2,150Member ✭✭✭✭
    that's the problem! u cant use a 2k paint because it has a hardener in it and the film wont stick! u need to use just a base coat no hardener. then dip then 2k clear!
    That's not true. You can use 2k paint, you just have to dip (and also clear coat) before the paint closes. Normally within a few hours. In any case, you'll probably need an adhesion promoter for the plastic. Spray adhesion promoter, then paint, and dip within 8 hours, clear immediately following the rinse.
    I thought he was sayin that he did a 2k that had hardener in and it all ready cured! 
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 13,958Administrator El Jefe
    Overactivation...
  • GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
    Almost everyone was right and I was wrong  :) it was just the old overacivation problem. Redipped and it was all good. Thanks everyone. 
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 10,032Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator

    Almost everyone was right and I was wrong  :) it was just the old overacivation problem. Redipped and it was all good. Thanks everyone. 

    We've all been there :-) and have seen it numerous times. No worries! Hang in there.
  • GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
    That's how it turned out after some overactivation. 
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 10,032Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Nice! Looks good... Even w/ the nasty pubic hair residue on the blades... :lol:
  • GravityGrafixGravityGrafix Posts: 143Member ✭✭✭
    I don't take any responsibility for the use of the product after I dipped it. Haha
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