Need some advice on Certain Cerakote colors!!

SOHydroSOHydro Member Posts: 253 ✭✭✭
Ok, I have been using Cerakote for a long time with no problems with the regular colors, OD Green, FDE, Graphite Black etc etc, but I am having a problem with the color Burnt Bronze, it has that tiny metal flake pigment in it and I can't get a clean spray with it, I'm prepping the parts right and all that jazz but when I take it out of the oven I will find a swirl or smudge on the slide or frame. Maybe half the size of a dime. Rest of the gun turns out flawless. It's only happening with Burnt Bronze. Any ideas or suggestions??


  • SOHydroSOHydro Member Posts: 253 ✭✭✭

    You can see the spot right below the ejection port on the slide
  • MrGoatMrGoat Member Posts: 15
    Call Cerakote about it. When we were having a similar issue it turns out they had sent us the wrong hardener with the paint. Ether way they are good about diagnosing issues like this and can get you pointed back in the right direction fairly quickly.
  • HardeightHardeight Member Posts: 584 ✭✭✭
    Where is the flaw? behind the "warthog" text?

    Could be some grease or oil still there. Sometimes it could be sprayed too thick. Did you let it flash off before putting it in the oven?

    Not every color sprays the same. It's a constant battle. The metallics are actually some of the thinnest coats and easiest to get coverage with IMO.
  • SOHydroSOHydro Member Posts: 253 ✭✭✭
    Yes, I did all of that properly, full decreased and oils free. I dunno what's happening. I'm waiting to hear back from NIC right now. I'm not gonna let it beat me, like I said, I'm only having problems with the metallics, have never had a problem with the regular colors.
  • SOHydroSOHydro Member Posts: 253 ✭✭✭
    @Hardeight yes, it's right below the ejection port.
  • Mr_Gas_CanMr_Gas_Can Member Posts: 149 ✭✭✭
    edited May 2015

    Yah had similar problem on my AR but much smaller and no one even notices but me. I will say I let all my stuff soak in a acetone bath for like 4 hours after a good sandblasting then put them in my oven for about an hour to gas out all the acetone and then fully look over it for any little imperfections that still have acetone in them from pitting or what not. I do notice when you pull the parts out of the acetone is easy to see bad spots as the acetone wont evaporate in those areas as quickly as clean spots.
    Here's a picture so I can show it off
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,593 El Moderator
    @Mr_Gas_Can be careful soaking steel parts in Acetone. (not sure how much of that gun is steel) Acetone is very hygroscopic (absorbs water from the air) soaking steel in this is an awesome way to get microscopic rust blooms under your paint. Not sure if that is the look you are going for, but thought I should mention it...
  • SOHydroSOHydro Member Posts: 253 ✭✭✭
    Looks good man! I guess I went the same route you did, I let it soak longer In acetone and actually scrubbed it with a brush while it was in the acetone. It took great after that, I guess it just had a stubborn spot on it.
  • HardeightHardeight Member Posts: 584 ✭✭✭
    You guys shouldn't be soaking your parts in acetone after the blast. You do that first.

    Blasting goes last. Acetone doesn't stick around on your part after you take it out. That residue is from the extremely fast evaporation and condensation going on as the acetone takes flight.

    The surface film is taken care of in blasting. If you use clean media and clean air to remove dust after the cabinet, it's ready to go right then.

    Sounds like you moved the steps around SOHydro.
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