What makes OHW so great?

onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,826Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
Are You Using the Right Paint?

Imagine you send a finished product to your customer and after a few months they return with the clear coat peeling right off. This is more than an inconvenience it is a potential disaster.

A few years ago, a well-known race team had their parts hydrodipped by another facility and after a several months on the track, the clear peeled right off. They came to us wondering what happened and how to fix it. That’s when we worked with industry experts to create a basecoat specifically for hydrographics, in order to prevent this from happening again.

How Does it Work?
OHW Paint's unique formula is designed to soften when dipped, allowing the film to chemically bond with the paint, using the film's activator as a catalyst. The clear coat, when applied, bonds THROUGH the film, into the paint and cures everything as one element. This is what makes OHW different, and the best paint for hydrographics.

How can you tell if you are using the right paint?
Any paint that you can rub immediately after dipping indicates that it has a hardening agent in it, and it's "window has closed" such as a typical automotive basecoat. The problem with this type of basecoat is that after dipping, when clear is applied, there is a good chance of future delamination, as the paint has been unable to accept the film and clear coat chemically. OHW Paint’s window remains open for at least 18 months.

Some Tips
Because OHW Paint does not have a hardener, it will remain soft if applied too heavily. OHW is made up of very dense binders and pigments, which need to be applied in fine coats. We like to tell people to apply color, not paint. A little OHW goes a long way.

When applied properly, OHW Paint is dry to the touch and ready to dip within 20 minutes. After dipping, we recommend that the DIPPED sections are not handled until after rinsing and the part has air-dried.

Get it here: http://www.ohwpaint.com/


  • CuttingEdgeCuttingEdge Posts: 255Member ✭✭✭
    Great write-up JJ. OHW is some awesome paint. I love it. The only thing that gets me is the cost. I normally use Matrix paints. Dollar for dollar, I get more for my money with Matrix. I understand that OHW is formulated to be used in Hydrographics. But it's not always cost effective. For me to do the amount of work I do using all OHW would cost me a small fortune to get set up with all the base colors I use. The Matrix paints have treated me well and I have not had any issues with work that I have used Matrix paint on. Most of the Matrix stuff comes in 1: 1-1/2. With OHW a quart is a quart. A quart of Matrix black base cost me $52. It gets me 2-1/2 quarts RTS. The OHW black cost me $59 shipped. Material wise, a measured quart of OHW covers more than a measured quart of Matrix. But, I still get more material with Matrix. I would love to use OHW exclusively, but cost is the only thing holding me back.
  • RBurressRBurress Posts: 1,553Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Good info indeed. We are fans of the paint and use it as our go to. It is crazy some of the stuff it has stuck to just playing around with it. If the user will follow the directions given on how to prep and apply, they shouldn't have any issues. Awesome stuff.
  • CuttingEdgeCuttingEdge Posts: 255Member ✭✭✭
    Before I get flame sprayed here, don't get me wrong I love OHW. You could dip a ducks back if it's painted with OHW. I do figure primer into the equation for one simple reason. I dip a lot of parts that are textured that need to be smoothed first to give a nice glassy show finish. To do that, I still have to use feather fill primer to fill in some of the texture.
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,826Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    no flaming here man - not at all!!!

    There are a lot of advantages with OHW (dip window, no primer, etc.) and we're working with UPS to get our costs down. Unfortunately, to ship it legally, we have to use ground, and their first cost, no matter what, is usually around the $15 mark
  • JeremyJeremy Posts: 1,121Member ✭✭✭
    Do you have a OHW distributor in Australia or New Zealand?
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,826Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    nope - is there enough demand do you think?
  • JeremyJeremy Posts: 1,121Member ✭✭✭
    yeah i figured that, damn wish we had hydro dipping specific paint!
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,826Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    do you have any legal guidlines for regulations at your disposal?
  • CoastalHydrographicsCoastalHydrographics Posts: 3,047Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2014
    I started out using several different paints & primers and having several different issues.@RyanHeath kept telling me how great ohw is so finally i ordered some to see for my self.Since then ohw has been the only paint I've used with zero of those issues.It saves me time & money.I actually have to educate some customers[who ask] on ohw .I've had a few to do their own research as well.Also the customer service Jason gives is untouchable.SO THANKS YOU again Ryan for another great tip in the hydrographic world.lol
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,826Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
  • sportssports Posts: 7Member
    Wish you guys would ship to Australia. If you are looking at it please let me know. I would be interested.
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,826Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    the options are open - we're getting our MSDS updated to cover 2015 new laws, so we'll find out soon
  • jonathanjonathan Posts: 14Member
    Hello, I'm new to hydro dipping. I dipp a few things here and there. I'm in the process of trying out OHW paint basic white. While I write this I'm letting a few parts I covered with white OHW paint dry up. I'm waiting about 10 minutes through coats. It usually covers up really good after the 2nd coat. After I'm i wit about 30 minutes before I dip the parts. And today 2 parts I had ready to dip for some reason after I go rinse of the residue from the film the paint becomes soft and ruins the whole part! I'm pretty frustrated at this point. Can someone please give me some feed back. Is there something I'm doing wrong
  • DeviousDipsDeviousDips Posts: 1,911Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    @jonathan what's water temp , activator , how your spraying the activator aerosol or hvlp , rinse temp. Some pics would help also. I use OHW and it's been great
  • jonathanjonathan Posts: 14Member
    Water temps about 80-90 only reason I say that because I tried dipping in various temperatures maybe that was the cause. Activator aerosol one pass only because I read too activator can cause OHW paint so soften. Rinse temp about 85 degrees. 
  • DeviousDipsDeviousDips Posts: 1,911Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Over activated looks to me. Ohw old paint was bad for that but the 2.0 is fine. You don't want to rinse higher temp than your dip. That's the bad thing with aerosol it's hard to adjust because you can't dial it in. Maybe try to move a little quicker 
  • jonathanjonathan Posts: 14Member
    So I've heard, I recently bought this 2 weeks ago. 
    But I'll see if it helps to spray activator much quicker. 
  • DeviousDipsDeviousDips Posts: 1,911Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    @jonathan Once you see the film glass out or basically turn to liquid that's where your dipping point is. After you glass out give it a couple sec then dip. 
  • bmxprojectbmxproject Posts: 288Member ✭✭
    edited April 2017
    I know i dont have the experience to comment but i have to say the light tan can spray has been the only ohw product ive had issues with. But with me, there are too many variables to say the paint actually caused the issue. But ive only had dipping issues when using the light tan. 
    One was a hard hat. Most likely improper flame treatment because ive never done it before. 
    Another was on  a yeti cup. Maybe not scuffed enough. Maybe that can doesnt do well when it sits on an item for a while. In both cases the paint weakend. The hat flaked and the cup softened. I didnt reattempt the hard hat. But the mini rumbler i just rinsed thoroughly. Light sand. Washed. let dry, reapplied a coat or two,  gave it 20 30 minutes and got a good hit. Maybe its just a curse of the color for me. Like this damn gun stock ive dipped 4 friggin times, and everytime something goes horribly wrong. The last time i ran out of activator midway through second pass. Maybe if i did the light tan on the stock theyd cancel eachother out lol. 

  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 14,068Administrator El Jefe
    Amazing how 90% of the problems on this forum seem to come out of a rattle can activation problem...
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 7,215Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    And no matter how many times we say it, people STILL want to give it a shot.
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 14,068Administrator El Jefe

    Yep - unless it is a vendor BUILT (not just filled with an off-the-shelf activator) aerosol , I'd stay away from them. The propellants and reducers in an aerosol blank will greatly affect the chemistry of the activator, giving unpredictable results, not to mention what nozzle is on the can. Get a small, inexpensive gun and compressor, and your success will increase immediately

  • morlan312morlan312 Posts: 29Member
    Aerosol activators are junk. Don't waste your time and your money! Spray it out of a real gun and get much better results!
  • irishpete86c4irishpete86c4 Posts: 142Member ✭✭✭
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