Activating a huge piece of film correctly!

rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 83
Any suggestions on how to activate this piece of film correctly? I have figured out what this problem is! I m under activating and over activating the film at the same time! This piece of film is 40x45 and by the time I finish the activator pass the activator i put on first becomes over activated by the time I get the ATV fender in the tank! Any thoughts on how to activate this film evenly? I called the vendor of the film OMH and i spoke to a tech that said he also had problems with the film its CAMO 209. The tech told me to drop the temp 10 to 15 degrees and activate heavy! I did this and got the same results!

Comments

  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,520 El Moderator
    Let's see pics. Activator is the strongest it's going to be as soon as its sprayed. It's not possible that it's getting stronger as it sits. If its overactivated, then its overactvated when you spray it.
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 83
    edited June 22
    This was the last dip after lowing the water temp to 80 degrees! I think I under activating it now! Before I was over activating! At least that's what I was told! Once in a blue moon I will get a film that i can't get right! And this is one! I m either over or under activating I can't get the right mix!



  • PagesHydroDippingPagesHydroDipping Member Posts: 725 ✭✭✭
    You are gonna have to learn how to read the film and this will only happen in time. If you don't already have one mount a light right above your tank this will really help you see if the film is "glassing out". In the pictures posted you are under activated.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,520 El Moderator
    @rmuck What was previously diagnosed as overactivation seemed to be spotty due to your poor gun set up. Overall your are having more problems with underactivation. Then lowering the temp of your tank is adding another variable to your process that you don't understand. It is REALLY hard to overactivate a film if your gun is being used correctly, I venture to say you have NEVER overactivated an entire film (just spots due to spitting) so you corrected something that wasn't your actual problem. In addition, these large parts are not easy for people who already know what they are doing. You are defeating yourself here. You need to take a step back and get your process dialed in.
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 83
    edited June 25
    Should I use the tic tac toe activation process? should I raise the temp back up? And to what degree? I usually have the tank set at 90 degrees for a film that has a lot of color! I got the gun setup perfect now! I have been doing other parts and not having a problem with any of the dips!
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 83
    These are pics of the dip I did just minutes ago! Temp was 87 degrees the film was glasses out all over the film! When I started spraying the activator I noticed the film was stretching out right after the activator hit the film! My film has no tape on the edges the dames are all I m using to control the film stretch!




  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Member, Moderator Posts: 3,535 El Moderator
    Are you feeding the part into the film as it goes in? The stretch looks like it's being pulled as if the approach angle is too steep. It looks like that is why the front portion has lightened and faded like that.
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 83
    edited June 25
    I start at the outside of the fender and go in at a 45 degree angle or so I think its the resistance i m getting and I m shoveling it into the water! I drop the fender edge in and pull towards me and there is a lot of resistance going in! Does it look like I activate right this time? There is still a lot of little dots or bubbles not sure!


  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,520 El Moderator
    Man... that looks like the water beat him
  • studebakerstudebaker Member, Business Ninja Posts: 3,697 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yep, the film broke on that first body line and stretched into oblivion. That comes from too much hydration weakening the film. You probably spent so much time getting the activator sprayed on just right and then vacillated too much on just the right way to enter the water with such a huge piece that all during that extra time you took doing that the film got too soft and weak to maintain continuity when forced to stretch a little.
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 83
    Im very confused I have heard and seen videos on how hydration length over 60 seconds will not affect the film? I roll the film on the water which might take 20-30 seconds to get it rolled off, then i grab the gun and shoot the activator which probably takes another 15-20 maybe a little longer and then dip the part! So Im confused on how in God's green earth I can do it any different without hiring a NASCAR pit crew! Which I would never do now that I "HATE" NASCAR! When rolling off the film the film that hits the water first starts hydrating right away so that film has 15-20 seconds on the rest of the film! Other than that I m not doing anything different than I m with any of my other dips, other than this film is so huge and I not use to working with it! I thought it was because i was pushing too hard on the piece when I hit resistance which was causing the film to blow apart! I was going to have my son help me next time with the piece dipping it at a slower pace! Any suggestions?
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 83
    How many inches off the water should your gun be to spray the activator? I am usually 5-6 inches but when I watch other videos it looks like they are spraying more like 10 plus inches? I m using a 1.4 tip.
  • studebakerstudebaker Member, Business Ninja Posts: 3,697 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, people have claimed that they have left film on the water overnight and "it was still good in the morning"... They failed to do the next step of activating that film. It would just have dissipated across the water like oil on water if they had. The clear fixative on top of the ink is not water-soluble, it was holding the ink together. When the activator melts the fixative/ink there is nothing left because the PVA film underneath had already completely dissolved away.

    The softness/pliability of the hydrated PVA film carrying the ink is as critically important to this process as the amount and type of activator you use.

    Brian at Liquid Concepts will show you how to activate...

  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,520 El Moderator
    @rmuck you need to go back and watch Jim's videos again. 5-6" is WAY too close, and you are going to tiger stripe and over activate the film that close. Plus you will get over activation and under activation in the same piece of film. Yes you may need help getting the film on the water at that size. When you are putting the part in the water you had an air pocket that eventually worked it's way off as you entered, you have to practice with the part and no film into the water to eliminate those pockets. If you cant eliminate the pocket, you meet to split the dip and do it in sections. It really seems like you are out over your skies here, perhaps you need some more practice time before you tackle this sized project
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