Cant figure out what I m doing wrong!

rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 86
I cant figure out what I m doing wrong? I have replaced my air lines, replaced my water filter and no bubbles in the film! I can dip it fine to a speed shape and looks great! But when I work on the HUGE piece of film it comes out looking like this! Please help me here guys! The first 5 pics are my first dip! The last 3 are my most recent after replacing filter and hose! Both dips have those little shotgun pattern holes!


  • SpinnerSpinner Member Posts: 380 ✭✭✭
    A video of your activation technique would be a big help.
    And it looks like your gun pattern isn't set up right. But if the speed shape truly looks right to you, then your technique on the larger piece would be the first place to look.
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 86
    edited June 8
    Where are the gun shot pattern of bubbles coming from? I am going to re-calibrate my gun maybe it has changed since I have gotten a new hose? I was told it was water in my line, under and over activation I m very confused I usually do not have problems but sometimes it just happens and I cant figure it out! Like this time!
  • PagesHydroDippingPagesHydroDipping Member Posts: 740 ✭✭✭
    Looks like you have a few problems going on. You are under activated for sure also looks like you trapped air in a few places. And there are a few spots that looks like your gun was dripping or leaking.
  • PagesHydroDippingPagesHydroDipping Member Posts: 740 ✭✭✭
    After reading you post I realized you stated the first 5 pics are from 1st dip. They have the spot I was referring to as leaking or dripping gun. As for the last 3 (new set up) you are still under activated and trapped air
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 86
    I didnt think about the gun! My gun if left with activator in it will drip! I always test spray clearing out any large amount of activator! Do you think the gun is dripping and leaking during the activation? Its been leaking since I took the gun apart and cleaned it last week!
  • OriginalGCOriginalGC Member Posts: 6
    Take gun apart again it most likely just a seal if dripping but few problems could be- water in air lines.. do you empty compressor air tank after day finished? Do you have a water trap in your air line? , activator dripping-fix seal or replacement or do you have a cheap paint gun? Dipping a big piece like that should be put on hold when your having problems. Try some speed shape moulds or smaller items and do process of elimination. One thing to always remember is a lot of it comes down to the preperation of the part
  • OriginalGCOriginalGC Member Posts: 6
    Also last picture shows definite under activated
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,591 El Moderator
    I deleted the other 2 posts. I agree that the top 5 pic are overactivation (dripping or spitting gun) 6th pic is trapped air, and last 2 pics are underactivated.
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 86
    My gun is a devilbiss middle of the line! I just replaced my air lines, I have a new water trap filter and no I do not empty my tank everyday I m bad at that! My prep is the same its been for years, sand, primer, base paint, bull dog and dip! I think I m just under activating it at this point I m going to take the gun down to paint supplier and get a new gun! I think the gun might be the whole problem here its been acting up for a few weeks! I thought I fixed it when I tore it down and cleaned it! I m glad I got the extended warranty now! Thanks for all the help!
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 10,376 El Moderator
    Wait... Can you confirm your steps are as follows:

    - Sand
    - Primer
    - Base Paint
    - Bulldog Adhesion Promoter
    - Dip

  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,591 El Moderator
    You can throw that Bulldog Adhesion Promoter out. It doesn't do the thing thats right there in its name...
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Member, Moderator Posts: 3,540 El Moderator
    Fix your gun first. It should never drip if activator is left in it. If it drips even one drop onto the film as you are spraying, the dip will be ruined. Fix this before trying to tackle any further problems.
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 86
    Went and got a new gun now trying to set it up once again and it is a **badword**! I have always had a tough time getting my guns set up right! My old gun was set up prerfect after many attempts! But my old gun was 5 years old probly needed to be replaced!
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 86
    Also I m use to doing smaller film cuts half this size and have not had a problem with them! This is on an ATV and the film takes up the whole tank! When applying activator should I use a different pass pattern? The passes take alot longer to do will this cause an uneven activation on parts of the film?
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,591 El Moderator
    Get some "Ram Board" (roll of construction paper) from Home depot. Makes seeing the pattern much easier, and you can use water to set the gun up.

    Guns really aren't that hard to set up once you know what you are looking for, but it is the single hardest thing for new people to understand, and effects every stage of this process. Stop trying to dip product for a week or so, and learn to set up your gun... You will be able to spray anything through anything after that.
  • loochlooch Member Posts: 2,030 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @rmuck there is a couple videos on here about setting up activator gun 
  • rmuckrmuck Member Posts: 86
    edited June 20
    Any suggestions on how to activate this piece of film correctly? I have figured out what this problem is! I m under activating and over activating the film! This piece of film is 40x45 and by the time I finish the activator pass the activator i put on first becomes over activated by the time I get the ATV fender in the tank! Any thoughts on how to activate this film evenly? I called the vendor of the film OMH and i spoke to a tech that said he also had problems with the film its CAMO 209. The tech told me to drop the temp 10 to 15 degrees and activate heavy! I did this and got the same results!
  • studebakerstudebaker Member, Business Ninja Posts: 3,740 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Use a different activator. The water temp change is about controlling the hydration time, so the advice about dropping the water temp sounds like you're fixing the wrong thing or you're not describing the problem the same to him as to us.

    If you are using Hydrovator, then use SuperBrew. If you are using Superbrew then use Hydrovator. If it's melting the ink too much before you can dip, it sounds like the activator is too hot. I would consider turning down the amount of liquid flowing through the spray gun and apply it in more crisscrossing passes.

    From all the pictures you have posted so far, you might want pay particular attention the WileECoyote's advice about setting up your gun.
  • DozerCorbinDozerCorbin Member Posts: 132
    Looks like you have a few problems going on. You are under activated for sure also looks like you trapped air in a few places. And there are a few spots that looks like your gun was dripping or leaking.
    I have received numerous tips from many of you that are answering questions in these forums. Even so, there is something I would like to ask. When, in your infinite wisdom, you describe an issue as @PagesHydroDipping has here concerning "under activated for sure," would you please go a step further and give reference in describing what has drawn your attention to an area that is under (or over) activated? Something like, "you are under activated for sure in that upper right area as can be noticed by the way it (describe it).
    And I keep reading comments from the wise about how us newbies are "obviously using a cheap spray gun." Yeah, they probably are cheap compared to what you have NOW. Or did all of you start out with a devilbiss spray gun?
    We ask legit questions and get, for the most part, reasonable and instructional answers. I do appreciate this as most newbies would I am sure.
    Understand, I'm a disabled man that can not work at any of the jobs I've worked in the 53 years of my life. I'm on disability and want to get back to work. This Hydrographic work appeals to me. I use to be a tattooist, owned two shops in Missouri and one in Illinois. That was along side being a union carpenter in St Louis. There are a number of profitable jobs I have had that I can't go back to now.
    What I'm saying is, I search these threads for information, as @WileECoyote wisely suggested, and I read a lot of belittling comments towards newbies. Comments like, "if you don't have a (name brand spray gun)..." or " if your not working with professional equipment... " basicly comments that if we... "aren't using the grade of equipment we NOW own you might as well pack it in, BUT! while I'm telling you that you're laughable for even trying to come up in this work, let me give you some vague advise that you should be grateful for." Yeah,they are out there in the forums.
    I'm asking that if you're going to give advise, be serious and act like we should know what your vague comment is directly referencing to.
    I am thankful for the info I have been given and been able to use from several members of this forum.
    Now, I haven't been rude, called anyone out of their name, cussed or such as that. This is my opinion. If you don't like it, that's fine, I don't care. That said, let's see how many get rude in reply. 
  • SpinnerSpinner Member Posts: 380 ✭✭✭

    I have only been doing this work for about three years. I was in your position and just as frustrated as you not all that long ago. I would guess that all of us have had the same frustrated experience as you.

    Trying to diagnose CHEMISTRY  issues over the internet can be just as frustrating to the teachers as it is to the student.

    I did not have an opportunity to attend in person training or even get an in.person lesson or two... Just like you. So I understand where you are.

    If you can find someone within a couple of hours of you that you can visit for a lesson, you would make huge steps.
    But here on the forum, a video of you issues would be the next best thing.

    Every now and then, I go back and read through my first posts. Now that I know what's going on, I can answer my own questions and recognise the huge gap of very seemingly very simple info or process.
  • PagesHydroDippingPagesHydroDipping Member Posts: 740 ✭✭✭
    If u ou look at your last couple of pictures you can see the little dots everywhere. That was my first sign then if you look around some of you edges you can see where the film kinda bunched up and left little strings or strands of film. Those are your 2 biggest signs of under activation.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Member, Moderator, Business Ninja Posts: 7,591 El Moderator
    @DozerCorbin that thread that I pointed out to you early on "Troubleshooting your first few dips" explains what we are seeing and how we diagnose the issues. Small holes with irregular shapes usually means underactivation.

    The reason that we say you need professional equipment to start with is because it compensates for operator error. An expensive gun atomizes at lower pressures and in a more complete mist without holes in the pattern. This eliminates the need for troubleshooting your gun. We understand that it is expensive to do, but it eliminates variables that you cause yourself. It also saves you money in the long run. You dont buy the cheap guns to start with, then upgrade, and upgrade again. 

    Lastly, learning 1 gun completely and setting it up perfectly every time is the key. When you are constantly learning new guns and how to compensate for their problems, you never get good at the other 20
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