Couple Questions

ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
First off, great forum with tons of great information! Lots of very knowledgeable and well versed posters. I've spent many hours on here reading through old posts. You guys rock!

Sorry if I get a little long winded here.


I decided to undertake a small personal project and give my old Remington 11-87 a face lift. I had some work done to the barrel, drilled and tapped the receiver ( to eliminate the ugly **badword** saddle mount), and adding a ShurShot stock.


I know rattle cans are frowned upon but since I am doing a one and done project it's what i decided to go with purely from a price perspective.

Here's what i'm using:

Big Brain Mossy Oak Film
Big Brain NanoChem Mossy Oak Base Aerosol
Big Brain Mossy Sauce Activator Aerosol
OHW 2K Clear (Matte) Aerosol

Now finally to the questions.

1. How long should I wait from dip to clear and how long is too long? I searched BBG's website and was unable to find any info what kind of window I have to apply the clear.

2. The picture below shows the ShurShot stock. the taped areas are textured and to give it a different look i'm going to leave them black. The question I have is after I dip should I take the tape off and clear it as well or apply new tape and only clear the dipped part?





Also, here's a couple pictures of the test run I did on the old stock and forearm I am replacing. Any critiques or tips? I know the knurled areas needed a bit of touch up but this was just a practice run so I didn't get to detailed and just stripped it back down and primed it.








Thanks in advance for all your help.




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Comments

  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    One more question... lol.

    Do i need to double dip the new stock or is it possible to roll a thumbhole stock and make it look decent? Not a fan of two seams but if it's a pain in the **badword** to try to roll I'll suck it up and dip it twice.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics El Moderator Posts: 10,101Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Rolling that stock will be hard with no experience. I’ve been there LOL. I would just go straight to dipping half/half.
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    edited June 20

    Rolling that stock will be hard with no experience. I’ve been there LOL. I would just go straight to dipping half/half.

    I read through your old post several times and it looked like it wasn't easy. Considering i'm out of base paint and would just as soon not have to order any more I think i'll just double dip and live with it. Thanks.


    What are your thoughts about the clear on the black taped off areas on the new stock? Do they need to be cleared as well or should i leave them as is?

  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics El Moderator Posts: 10,101Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    I wouldn't. There is no chemical or mechanical bond there. I would clear only the parts that have been properly prepped, painted, and dipped.

    Also, on that note... Make sure you scuff that thing VERY well, then paint. You ideally want to blast it if you're not going to be using any sort of primer or adhesion promoter before painting. To my knowledge, the Big Brain aerosols are NanoChem paint, which does not go direct to plastic. You will need either a good profile for a mechanical bond (scuff/blast) or a chemical bond (primer, adhesion promoter) prior to paint. I like maroon scotch brite pads.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics El Moderator Posts: 10,101Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    And peel the tape while the clear is still wet or at minimum tacky, or it may lift the edges.
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    No blast cabinet but I did go over it heavily with maroon scotch brite and acetone.




  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote El Moderator Posts: 7,130Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Honestly, you have some underactivation, trapped air, a difficult part, and improper prep techniques... Why not just take it somewhere and have it done and take the other $200 you are going to spend on this on your own, to get it right and go out to a nice dinner?
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    edited June 20

    Honestly, you have some underactivation, trapped air, a difficult part, and improper prep techniques... Why not just take it somewhere and have it done and take the other $200 you are going to spend on this on your own, to get it right and go out to a nice dinner?

    Because it seemed like it would be a fun little project to try at home. The gun is 25 years old and been beat and banged half way across the country. Half the original camo dip was worn off and I thought it would be fun to give it a makeover. I know it's not going to look like it rolled off the factory floor and didn't have those expectations going into it. I've got about $120 in supplies and my time. Just wanted to ask a few questions to get the best results with what material I had.

  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote El Moderator Posts: 7,130Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Just trying to make sure you have the facts in front of you. I am going to guess the attempt at dipping isn't going to go well, so be prepared to buy some more base paint, and probably some more film. We will be here to help you out, just hate to see guys throwing money away, but understand the fun of trying it.
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts El Jefe Posts: 14,024Administrator El Jefe
    Looks good so far...

    (I always cringe when I say that...)...
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    edited June 21
    Ok the talk about plastic prep caught my attention so I tape checked my stock and sure enough some of the base paint pulled off with the tape.    So I'll be stripping it and redoing it.  My question is how do I need to prep the stock to get the base to stick?  I sanded it heavy with maroon scotch Brite but apparently that wasn't enough.  Any pointers?
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote El Moderator Posts: 7,130Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator

    To my knowledge, the Big Brain aerosols are NanoChem paint, which does not go direct to plastic. You will need either a good profile for a mechanical bond (scuff/blast) or a chemical bond (primer, adhesion promoter) prior to paint. I like maroon scotch brite pads.

  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics El Moderator Posts: 10,101Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Yeah, you will need an adhesion promoter, or blast it. I don't like using scotch brite alone. It works, but you really gotta scuff to where there is zero shine left.
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    edited June 21
    My brother has a blasting cabinet so I can do that. What size/type media works best? Once blasted does it also need a primer or can I go on straight with the base? I'm assuming 80-100 grit glass bead would work best?
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics El Moderator Posts: 10,101Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Avoid glass bead if possible. It works, but Aluminum Oxide or Garnet is best. Anywhere from 80-100 grit is good. If glass bead is already in the cabinet? Don't worry about changing the media.

    Once blasted, just paint. It'll be fine.
  • smedlinsmedlin ✭✭✭✭✭ Posts: 2,211Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    Garnet actually works better for leaving a profile than glass beads.. but glass beads will work also.

    In this case, it's not JUST blasting it.

    Nanochem won't stick to plastics.

    Nanochem is a great paint.. it's my "go-to" paint. I use it more than any other.. but it's not for every job.

    Different paints for different tasks...

    Order some One Hit Wonder paint.

    https://www.ohwpaint.com/

    It has a built in primer and will stick to plastic (as long as the plastic is prepped).

    it's good that you did a pull test (tape test).

    When I deal with plastics (which is a lot), I always do various cross-hatch tape test.
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    So talked to OHW and they were extremely helpful. Got what I need on the way and will probably end up blasting a couple of different pieces and repainting just to be on the safe side.

    Oh, and WileE I did order me some more film too. I know this project is costing me more than had I just sent it off and had it done but some times it's not the destination but the journey lol.
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts El Jefe Posts: 14,024Administrator El Jefe
    Avoid the glass bead...we have never had much luck with it...stick to aluminum oxide or garnet...if you think of the surface of your part? Glass bead will give you a terrain like a golf ball...not much of a “toe hold” for you paint or primer...

    But if you think of a piece of upside down broccoli? THAT is what will give your paint or primer that “toe hold” or mechanical bond that you are looking for...we have done a LOT of testing on that to see just what works and what doesn’t...gonna have to trust me on that one...

    “I have never failed...I just found 1000 ways that don’t work”...Jim Tzu (Famous Warrior Poet and Dip Ninja)....
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote El Moderator Posts: 7,130Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts El Jefe Posts: 14,024Administrator El Jefe
    @WileECoyote Yes you are correct...I am proud to say I am the most humble man I know...Jim Tzu (Famous Warrior Poet and Modest Dip Ninja)...
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    edited June 24
    I got everything blasted this weekend and the OHW paint should be arriving tomorrow.   I know I have a pretty long window between painting and dipping but how long do I have from dip to clear?  I only ask because I have the OHW 2K clear aerosol and only have a 4-6hr window to get everything sprayed.  This is just an after work evening project for me so my plan is to paint everything one day, dip the next, and clear the next.  If I have any screw ups (and i'm sure I will) I'll have to clean and repaint and redip which would put some pieces possibly sitting 48 hours before being cleared.  Is that an acceptable window or too long?


  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote El Moderator Posts: 7,130Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    For OHW your window is LONG (talking days here). But once you punch that aerosol, you gotta use it all. Keep in mind you could use any 2k clear once you correctly use the OHW base and dip to that in the same time frame.
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    edited June 24

    For OHW your window is LONG (talking days here). But once you punch that aerosol, you gotta use it all. Keep in mind you could use any 2k clear once you correctly use the OHW base and dip to that in the same time frame.


    So once I put the Mossy Oak film on it I still have a few days to get everything just right before I push the big red button on the clear? I was under the impression that once I put the film on it I needed to get it cleared relatively quickly. Like less than 24 hours or so.
  • PagesHydroDippingPagesHydroDipping ✭✭✭ Posts: 668Member ✭✭✭
    No if I'm not mistaken Jason at ohw says a week after dip. @onehitwonder
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote El Moderator Posts: 7,130Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    only if you are using a 2k "automotive" style paint, which is what you were using before, which is why I said it wouldn't work. But now that you have paint approved for this industry, that has all changed.
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder ✭✭✭✭✭ Posts: 2,823Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    2 weeks minimum from dip to clear. OHW doesn’t need any primer ever, unlike some of the copycat companies
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts El Jefe Posts: 14,024Administrator El Jefe

    2 weeks minimum from dip to clear. OHW doesn’t need any primer ever, unlike some of the copycat companies


  • NotSoFastNotSoFast El Moderator Posts: 3,448Member, Moderator El Moderator

    2 weeks minimum from dip to clear. OHW doesn’t need any primer ever, unlike some of the copycat companies

    Am I reading his incorrectly or shouldn't it read "two weeks MAXIMUM from dip to clear"? As in don't wait more than two weeks.
  • ds8466ds8466 Posts: 12Member
    edited June 29
    I was confused too so I just called Jason and had him clarify lol.
    Post edited by ds8466 on
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder ✭✭✭✭✭ Posts: 2,823Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    Just to be clear....we’ve tested our clearcoat adhesion on a dip at 2 weeks, and it bonded perfectly. So technically, the clearcoat window is MINIMUM 2 weeks, We do not know what the MAXIMUM window is, as we haven’t tested until fail, so it may be a year.

    2 weeks is safe. Let’s just say that!
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