MidOhioHydrographics — K2Forums.com

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Badges

MidOhioHydrographics El Moderator

About

Username
MidOhioHydrographics
Joined
Visits
7,315
Last Active
Roles
Member, Moderator, Business Ninja
Points
5,122
Posts
8,516
Badges
28
  • Re: mossy oak certification

    This is what it looks like. And these cracks come as soon as I hit it with activator. 
    gun setup
    @Smitty that’s interesting and possible. What about gun setup would cause this?

    It was not the case in our situation. We have a spray bar and did dips from two rolls of the same Mossy Oak film back to back. Only difference was the rolls of film which were received at two separate times. Parts on fixtures and dipped on an arm. Speed, angle, Activator application all identical. One cracked, one did not.
  • Re: K2 Forums Big 3M Announcement

    Also wanted to let guys and gals know that the ANI Mini 0.8 is incredible for Cerakote. My Cerakote guy has grown to love them over the LPH-80, which thoroughly surprised us because we are huge Iwata fans. But if you're using the ANI Mini 0.8 for Cerakote, they do not recommend using a plastic cup. Cerakote can eat the plastic and make the coating not perform as well (according to NIC). The good thing is, you can find metal cups for the Sata Minijet and they fit the ANI Mini guns. I had my local shop order me two for about $45 each.
  • Re: Copper pipe size question

    You want to get threaded brass adapters for that. Don't use steel pipe if everything else is copper. You risk rust eventually. Get a copper sweat to 3/4"NPT adapter to solder on your 3/4" copper stub. They will have brass pipe nipples at Lowes or Home Depot. Then in brass: a 3/8" straight 2" long to come out, then a 3/8" F to F elbow, then another 3/8" 2" piece, a 3/8" union to make connecting easy, then adapt it up to 3/4". Probably will go 3/8" to 1/2" first then from 1/2" to 3/4". And then get whatever 3/4" piece you need to attach to the 3/4" NPT fitting on your copper pipe.

    Put it together in the store as you go if you can.
  • Re: hydrographic tank wiring help

    Yeah and you're going to need a manual for that PID controller. Unless the I/O is labeled clearly on the side and they've used that type before. But I would get the manufacturer info and contact them online for a manual for programming.
  • Re: Yeti cup jig

    Bet that bad boy isn't cheap
    "Cheap" is relative. If he's really doing 1000's of these, at $20-$40 each? I would start automating. But that's just my thought process for production and it works well for us. We do a full tank dip of parts every 3-3.5 minutes because of our automation. Hell, the other day my guys were at 2.5 minute cycles. Sometimes things just go smooth.

    Jim, on the other hand, does thousands of mud jugs by hand and makes a damn good living at it.

    I would bet that Jim would say... Before you go for automation, try to work on your cycle times. A 3 minute cycle time is where you need to be. So you're dipping 1 cup every 3 minutes... in an 8 hour day, that's 160 parts dipped. 160 x $20 isn't too shabby for a day's work. And let's say you don't have a guy to paint/clear directly before and after you, so you only dip every other day. Set up a schedule.
    Day 1: Prep/Paint
    Day 2: Dip
    Day 3: Clear/denib/polish Day 2's parts, Prep/Paint for Day 4
    Day 4: Dip
    Day 5: Clear/denib/polish Day 4's parts, Catch up & get ready for Monday

    Now you're in production. So that's 320 cups a week, at $20 each on the low side.... $6400/week? Sign me up. Twice.

    Since it's difficult to dip two at once? Change the other parts of the process. Work on racks for moving & drying parts, ways to easily hold them, get efficient at prep, paint, clear, curing, polishing, packaging. Test different paints/clears to find something inexpensive that works well. Streamline part movement. So on, so forth.