WileECoyote — K2Forums.com

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WileECoyote El Moderator


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  • I would start on the end with the writing first, and go in at an angle from there if you HAD to do it in 1 dip. I might consider 2 dips (masking the inside section off and dipping that straight in to hit those angled sections and humps). Or give the…
  • Just because you added more, doesn't mean you added enough. and your application lends itself to INCONSISTENT activation as well. and the fact that you are jumping prints is changing 2 variables in your troubleshooting process (big red flag)
  • Any automotive grade 2K paint is going to be your most available (color selection), and about as durable as you can expect for paint that you can easily dip too. The gel coat is pretty tough stuff, but its going to be too cured out by the time you g…
  • Pictures... For everything. Always.
  • Part of the problems you are experiencing are your own doing. Not only are you trying to learn a new process, you are trying to reinvent the wheel while you are doing it. There is absolutely no reason you should be messing with making your own print…
  • They are going to take your old adapters because the patent ran out on them and other (pronounced: "WAY CHEAPER") people can start making them now. So they will give you for "FREE" some new adapters that you will have to buy their NEW PATENTED cups …
  • I would airbrush them an accent color.
  • Welcome
  • Keep in mind, some base coats (like metallics) are not sandable.
  • We blasted for years using steel shot, gotta be some rust in there already. The conditions you are blasting in (Humidity, handling, and time from blasting to coating) are MUCH more of a concern.
  • Clear looks pretty good too Dave. Nice Job.
  • Yeah, more speed helps overall, but guys try to make up for technique with it... which causes problems. If you want to speed up your overall process, do a better job prepping. Never sand flat, sand to match the overall surrounding orange peel, and u…
    in Buffing ? Comment by WileECoyote March 6
  • @onehitwonder is going to have to explain the unlimited to 2 week window change after dipping. I don't even know why that is...
  • Bottom part is underactivation.
  • We have a few powder coaters here, maybe they can help you out, but we don't deal much with powder on this forum.
  • Typically you need to go after it a bit more than that. I would rinse it, and try to scrub it off with your fingers pretty hard. If it was test pieces I would even try to scratch it with my thumbnail. If it goes through that, and is going to get cle…
  • I gotta find out how he got those bearings to stay clean without masking...
  • @smedlin that might be the most Badass thing I have heard you say. @Tim You are right, you can't compete with "Garage Dippers" that is why custom work is a dead end. That is why saying "No one else does this in my area" is a TERRIBLE business plan…
  • ALWAYS strain your paint EVERYTIME. Never don't strain your paint. Each time you pour paint you should strain it. Strain your paint... Did I get the point I was trying to make across? Water based and heavy metallic solvent or waterbased typically n…
  • We always scuff before airbrush, but others may have different opinions.
  • @Ravindrasawant Big enough to fit the largest piece that you are ever going to dip... Typically you want at least a meter wide, as film comes in that width, and about 3 feet deep or so seems to be pretty common. Then the length is up to you.
  • Nice, next guess was going to be water from your airline.
  • Of all the things I have ever done, dipping has the steepest learning curve. Just when you think you have it figured out with non-stop perfect dips, BOOM - WTF? This happened to me and I figured out that it was the humidity in the building, who wo…
  • Wow... 1.2K views. Hope that the people that are viewing this, are contacting you guys.
  • Yeah, but it looks like those are 2 different spots... and I assume that you would have checked for those before you dipped?
  • Ouch that sucks...
  • Sort of... Looks like you have a leaking activator gun, or some sort of spitting from it. So technically overactivated, but not due to technique
  • LOL. If it weren't for the airbrushing around the edges of the hydrographics, I would have called this a bad dip...:-) But that was intentional, if so, great job. That was my first thought also... Yep, I was going through all the delamination…
  • @Freedom Hydrographics I won't argue with you one bit that this process does not compromise the integrity of a hard hat, or almost any other safety equipment. And you can do all the testing you want to make your clients feel better... but it doesn't…
  • Likely if you are using a UV cured base coat, you aren't really biting in to it with the print. On the other hand, I doubt most people expect more than a week or two out of the print anyway... But you are in some uncharted territory here, so you are…