WileECoyote — K2Forums.com
Avatar

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Badges

WileECoyote El Moderator

About

Username
WileECoyote
Joined
Visits
2,645
Last Active
Roles
Member, Moderator, Business Ninja
Points
4,248
Posts
6,163
Badges
29

Comments

  • Put a pearl coat over the paint before you clear it.
  • Yes, on your flow direction. Yes on the filtration. Door located between work and exhaust rather than behind it.
  • So you only push air in and don't use the fan to pull any out? No, more expensive booths do both. Ours pulled (exhaust only). I recommend you exhaust only How do you filter your air coming in? You filter with filters... I am not sure there is m…
  • @smedlin I had to look back to be sure. We used a squirrel cage style fan from a furnace to move air in our booth. The emphasis is IN our booth, its just sort of slang that we used in that job. I would never choose to push air into the booth, you…
  • In an industrial application they require 110 CFM of airflow if you are using a half-mask respirator, 60 CFm for supplied air. I have found that most of the time 60 CFM is just fine, as long as the flow is constant. You can use whatever fan you are …
  • Welcome. A bit of advice. If you are just looking to play around, you are welcome to ask questions. If you are expecting high quality results for a "show car", it is SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper to hire someone to do the parts for you.
    in Hello all Comment by WileECoyote July 16
  • You can do whatever you want, as long as your process works with it. If you start doing production, I suspect that would take too much of your tank time.
  • Keep in mind there are THOUSANDS of prints, and most of us have only memorized the base color combinations for 6 or 7 hundred of them. Any more than that, and you start forgetting how to feed yourself, or your children's names.
  • As far as I know there is a certain addetive in the paint and clear is especially difficult because the additive has a tint to it.
    in UV Lights Comment by WileECoyote July 14
  • Flex additive in most body shops applications is designed to last for a few days to get the bumper back on the car. Once it sits in the sun a few days... that is all gone. Most clears that I have used will handle the amount of flex you have there. B…
  • @SkinEDippin because this has been an issue with others, it was meant as more of a general statement. But yes, reds seem to have a real problem in the sun, especially in certain types of film.
  • I have used UV cure spot primer and clear. Even made a booth for it. Cool to the touch and cures in 3 minutes. You need special paints for it to cure, and I am guessing those paints are not designed for Hydrographics. They cure up hard, doubt much w…
    in UV Lights Comment by WileECoyote July 13
  • And UV protection ALSO comes from the clear you spray. The cheapest clear you can find in a 5 gallon bucket is cheap for a reason...
  • Remember your business' reputation is on the line. You had a part that peeled like a banana, and EVERYONE saw it... because you wanted to save 15 minutes on a job that took 3 hours...
  • Welcome
  • Get alot of 1 film and practice with that.
  • @MidOhioHydrographics "short staffed"? I haven't heard that at all this year... Our unemployment rate is so low, that you actually can't buy a house around here. Houses sell with being on the market for a day or two. Buyers are paying $20,000 to $…
  • It obviously depends on the part and the paint below it, but typically it just melts the base. For 95% of the people that see overactivation (which is the problem only about 5% of the time) it is gonna just slide off. At early training classes, we…
  • Aerosol is inconsistent. Use it at your own risk. We can't help you if you do.
  • @para45acp I think those are to lift furniture while your floor dries?
  • So to save 1 hour of work, you accepted his crap primer that he sprayed on and you had no idea what it was, and a prep job that could have been absolutely nothing. You ended up blasting it down and starting over anyway, so you probably didn't make a…
    in Cracking Comment by WileECoyote July 9
  • For a professional set up (able to consistently turn out quality parts) figure $30,000. If you assume you are going to make it on 1 off custom work, you will not generate enough interest in your area no matter your size. You need production work to …
  • Overactivation looks like oil and water. If you haven't seen that, than why are you worried about sneaking up on it. Just get more activator on the part. http://k2forums.com/discussion/10060/troubleshooting-your-first-few-dips#latest Look for the …
  • Usually with some looking around online you can find the Pantone # for just about any school or team. Information I found was 502 when in the camo, 504 when it's stand alone. If you give JJ those numbers, he should have no trouble matching it. Or fi…
  • If it is still liquid, its probably fine. Keep in mind OHW1.0 had different rules for use and is a bit less forgiving.
    in shelf life Comment by WileECoyote July 9
  • I am guessing the brake fluid reservoir is hdpe just for chemical resistance
  • Sounds like you are planning to thin a pigmented paint with binder (intercoat) to get a candy. That is no the same as adding as candy to a clear (intercoat or actual clear coat). It doesn't look the same, and actually does not look as good.
  • What do you mean by automotive paint? A 2K urethane? Then it wasn't cured.
  • Thats going to be up to the customer
  • @DeviousDips unless you have contamination in your shop don't touch it with a chemical. You only use a chemical if you have proven that there is a NEED too. In 99% of cases, all you have to do is tack it off.