Minimal wasted materials

MaxPMaxP Posts: 1Member
Hey guys, I'm new to the dipping, and it's mainly just for hobby or personal gear, I'm not looking to spend tons on paints, activator, air guns, etc, and yes I realize it's an expensive hobby.
Few Qs, if I was to use spray cans, which cans or kinds of paint do I stay away from? Oil base or what types of paint? Or name brands to stay away from would help too.

2, Also if all my projects are fairly small like a foot long or smaller, I was thinking of saving materials,activator by using one of the smaller airbrush guns with compressor on eBay to paint and activate. do they put out enough spray when fully flowing?, or atomize activator well?
(More worried about activator).
Or is there any flaws or issues I should know about them? Ones or brands to stay away from etc?
Seems like they would do the job for my smaller projects.
Thanks in advance, great forum!


  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,254Member, Moderator El Moderator
    1. Any of the paints offered by the forum sponsors. A few offer aerosols. Store-bought aerosols don't play well with the activator in most cases.
    2. An airbrush will not put out enough product quickly enough. It will be evaporated before you finish spraying. Plus it would only cover maybe an inch wide at a time per pass. Unless you are dipping postage stamps, you'd have so many passes of activator that you'd never get consistent results from the overlapping.

    Unfortunately, there is a minimum level of equipment necessary to get consistently good results. Even with the very best stuff, it takes hundreds of hours of practice to get "good".
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 13,340Administrator El Jefe
    What is it with the airbrush for activator questions lately?...

    And I am glad I wrote this rattle can spray paint answer down because I have copied and pasted it more times than I can remember on this forum...

    Rattle Can Explanation

    An aerosol uses special reducers and generally at a greater ratio than the paint used in a spray gun. (interpretation, it will be thin). Personally? I don't use Rustoleum so I have no experience with it. Not trying to be "smart" just saying it like it is. I did a bit of checking through and found what I suspected. First off, there are MANY versions of Rustoleum. But what I found is that they seem to be either an "Acrylic Latex" (think house paint) or "Oil Based Enamel's". Most likely you are using one of the "oil based enamels". Oil based enamels do not seem to take automotive paints above it, most often it seems to lift. The reducers in automotive paints are much harsher than what oil base can handle. And guess what? Activator is as close to paint reducer as you are going to get. THAT should tell you why rattle cans do not work right there...

    Rattle can paint is a 1k paint meaning no additives needed. As this paint does dry and get hard it is called reversible paint, meaning thinners, gas, carb cleaners, can loosen the paint and take it off like stripper does. They do now make rattle cans with a plunger in the bottom of the can, you push that up and it injects a hardener into the paint, making it a 2k paint. That may be more up your alley what you're looking for. Still you are much better off using One Hit Wonder, Direct To Plastic from Kansas Hydrographics, Low Country Hydropaint from Low Country Hydrographics or USA Paint from Dip Demon for your Hydroprinting needs.
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