Deer skull help

I'm fairly new to hydro dipping. I'm still working on some things to become better.  I dipped my first deer skull and need to know the best way to dip do that the inside of the eye sockets can be printed as well 

Comments

  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Not gonna happen. The best result I can get is to dip the front, and then dip the bottom, starting w the back bottom corner (best way I know to describe it). I double dip all my skulls because I (and the taxidermist I have a contract with) prefer the bottom and back to be printed well also.

    Even doing like that? The eye sockets don't fill. Get an airbrush and paint them in. Use a color that corresponds with the film. Black or a dark gray usually work well.
  • sas874runnersas874runner Posts: 40Member
    Ok. That is my thought as well. But you guys are the masters so I figured I would ask
  • OverCoatsOverCoats Posts: 350Member ✭✭✭
    if you have an airbrush, fill in the color at the base of the horns and let it fly. I tape off the teeth to give it contrast but some like it that way also. looks good!
  • ImmortalImmortal Posts: 261Member ✭✭✭
    I dip several skulls, what I have luck with is using electrical tape wrap it very tight around the base of the antler burr. I will then cover the antlers with plastic bags or plastic wrap and tape it tight. I usually dip the bottom first and then dip the top and airbrush the eye sockets unless the pattern looks better just leaving it with the solid base coat color.
  • ImmortalImmortal Posts: 261Member ✭✭✭
    Its not terribly tough to clean it off the antlers if you get a little paint or material on it.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Glad Press N Seal around the antlers. Works like a dream.
  • sas874runnersas874runner Posts: 40Member
    Yea the spot under the buttons bugged me but the guy insisted on taping the skull him self. Guess you can't win them all
  • Archer0545Archer0545 Posts: 806Member ✭✭✭
    I do all mine in two dips as well. I dip the back of the skull first sinking it into the water till the waterline runs from the back of the last tooth to the back of the antler bases. It will leave a straight line across the skull but it is behind the high point of the skull right between the antlers. Then when you dip the front I let it wash over that line and it kind of blurs it out mostly. Then if I need to I will airbrush it in places where the straight line sticks out. I also airbrush the eye sockets with a corresponding color as well as was mentioned above but I also blend in a couple darker lines to break it up and it looks better that way.
  • DeepSouthDippinDeepSouthDippin Posts: 277Member ✭✭✭
    What are y'all charging to dip a deer skull? I have several people wantin it done. But by the time you figure in time and all the material used including removing the hide and boiling the head, you added up some money and time!!
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    @DeepSouthDippin they come to me bare. Already has to be done as a European mount by a taxidermist before I will accept it to dip.
  • DeepSouthDippinDeepSouthDippin Posts: 277Member ✭✭✭
    Ok assuming they bring it that way what do you charge?
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Normal walk-in customers are $75. I charge the taxidermist a price breakdown based off how many they bring at one order, and if the teeth are taped off or painted and dipped.
  • buckshotbuckshot Posts: 28Member
    I beetle clean anywhere between 1200-1500 skulls a year with roughly 30 percent being dipped. I am just beginning to venture into other items other than skulls and plaques. What I have found is to do my touch up before the dip, on skulls the nasal passage, eye sockets (in and behind) and behind antlers is the problem areas that stretch or tear out so I paint my problem areas with my touch up paint (coorisponding color) and then dip.
    i also offer pricing structure, first being a blended color behind antlers and allow the pattern to stretch and fade to solid and then I offer a double dip.

    trick with the antlers is to tape to the burr of the antler then use silly putty to form the irregular surface of the last 1/4"-1/2" of burr.
    silly putty can be used over and over and won't leave residue on antlers.
  • buckshotbuckshot Posts: 28Member
    Another tip for keeping teeth natural is to brush on liquid masking or watered down elmers glue. Both work but liquid masking is the faster. Simply use a dental pick and remove after dip.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    buckshot said:

    Another tip for keeping teeth natural is to brush on liquid masking or watered down elmers glue. Both work but liquid masking is the faster. Simply use a dental pick and remove after dip.

    I gave this an honest try, and (in my opinion) it was more of a pain than taping. You've obviously done many, many more skulls than I have. We've only done about 30 this year. But I found The time to brush on 2-3 coats is about the same as taping, but removing the tape is much faster afterward. It almost just falls off.

    I like the silly putty idea!
  • buckshotbuckshot Posts: 28Member
    Buy the liquid mask from your local house paint supplier! It's not the same as the craft store liquid mask. 
    Contractors use it on Windows, doors etc as a spray applicant. I don't spray but brush with a hobby brush. 
  • Archer0545Archer0545 Posts: 806Member ✭✭✭
    I tape around the base of the antlers folding it under the burr. Usually I will tape up to the brow tines and then from there I will wrap with plastic grocery sacks and tape the tips of the antlers to keep them from poking through. I leave this on through the whole process. including the clear then peel it all off after. I have tried aluminum foil but it doesn't work as well. The press and seal idea is interesting though. I have some to try on my next skull.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    buckshot said:

    Buy the liquid mask from your local house paint supplier! It's not the same as the craft store liquid mask. 
    Contractors use it on Windows, doors etc as a spray applicant. I don't spray but brush with a hobby brush. 

    Yeah this is what I bought: Amazon Link

    Pretty sure it's the craft store stuff. What exactly are you using? Have a brand?

    @Archer0545 The press and seal works amazing. I still tape the tips of the antlers as you said.
  • Archer0545Archer0545 Posts: 806Member ✭✭✭
    I'll definitely give it a shot! Thanks!
  • sas874runnersas874runner Posts: 40Member
    this is the portion of skull that this guy is concerned with. I'm assuming this is the area everyone is shading in with an air brush and paint
  • buckshotbuckshot Posts: 28Member
    Yes that is the area.
  • sas874runnersas874runner Posts: 40Member
    Thank you. Because I have no idea how you could get that to print. Haha
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Yep just airbrush in some dark brown. In there like swimwear.
  • Mrbakaysa29Mrbakaysa29 Posts: 69Member ✭✭
    @buckshot or @MidOhioHydrographics,  I've done several skulls but just tried my first natural teeth look.  I used liquid masking and I'm having a hell of a time removing it.  Any tips? Thanks in advance. 
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,258Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Yeah we didn’t like it. Sorry, this is an old post. We went back to cheap masking tape.
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