Here is my video on dipping a yeti cup

headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭

Advice is welcome if you see something 


  • headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭
    edited August 2015
    Also this is using the superbrew.  This stuff is awesome.  
  • UptonSpoonUptonSpoon Posts: 554Member ✭✭✭
    Thanks for sharing.
    Now was that a pipe attached to a sink plunger you had for your jig please?
  • headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭
    It is a piece of pvc pipe. I have foam stuck in the cup to hold it in place 
  • CoastalHydrographicsCoastalHydrographics Posts: 3,047Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Man this is great timing. I've been getting a few calls lately about dipping yeti cups. Thanks.
  • TsunamiTsunami Posts: 4,952Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    Great color and you can't argue with that. But the pressure is to high for me./ Way too much activator in the air. Try dropping it down and see if you keep the same rich color with the activator actually going on the film instead of the air.
  • headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭
    Will do tsunami I will try that.    Thanks for the comment 
  • BackwoodsHydroLLCBackwoodsHydroLLC Posts: 217Member ✭✭✭
    @Tsunami , I'm running mine at 17-18 with super brew.. How low you talking?
  • headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭
    I got mine set at 10
  • IceMasterIceMaster Posts: 1,333Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2015
    that turned out pretty good
    Thank you for posting that video. Every time i go that fast i get stretch.
  • TsunamiTsunami Posts: 4,952Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    Just check and see if you can get the same results with a lower pressure. I think you will be amazed at how low you can go. Now remember that when you drop your pressure more activator will be on the film and not in the air so you will have to speed up or reduce your passes. Good luck.
  • headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭
    edited August 2015
    I actually had it at around 4-5 psi and Just turned it up to 10 psi to see what it would do 
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,400Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    @headhunter6 @Tsunami and @BackwoodsHydroLLC the goal is to always keep your air pressure as low as you can go while still getting the coverage and pattern you need. The lower your air pressure, the less overspray. The way to accomplish further improvements in that area is by being able to increase your skills as a painter. Consistent stroke patterns (this is easier to do for guys who have accounts and can paint the same shapes alot), you should be able to adjust your overlap that you can count 3 strokes (right to left is 1 stroke, the return left to right is another) on the side of a part consistently for example. Consistent distance from the part with the gun. Consistent viscosity of your paint. As you start to get these factor tuned into the way you spray, turn down your pressure a bit more and tune again. it will force you to be a better painter. But be warned, there is a point you will reach where it all just falls off the map and you have gotten as good as you can.
  • BackwoodsHydroLLCBackwoodsHydroLLC Posts: 217Member ✭✭✭
    @WileECoyote  Thanks for the info..  I'm wearing my respirator the entire time I'm in my tank area, as it takes a while for the fumes to go away.  Maybe this will help.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,400Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    @BackwoodsHydroLLC This is something that every painter in the world can work on whenever he has time. Just when you think you got it down, you can switch to a smaller tip or a different gun. If you want to see how good a painter REALLY is, turn down his pressure a few pounds and see how he adjusts. If he reaches for the regulator, you have your answer. If he turns in his material screw, adjusts his fan, takes a deep breath and makes slow steady passes... HIRE that guy!
  • FrankensteinlxFrankensteinlx Posts: 72Member ✭✭
    Thanks for sharing...
    If I ever get a break from my real job I'm going to try a few..
  • JimGJimG Posts: 88Member ✭✭
    100% correct on that @WileECoyote, a good painter adapts to the situations. =)
  • ChasinTaleChasinTale Posts: 16Member
    So what do you put inside of the yeti cup to keep it clean?    Do you have to sand or etch the yeti before you dip it?
  • headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭
    its stuffed with some soft foam and if something gets inside I just wipe it off before it dries. as far as the prep I sand it real good and throw a good primer on it to start. It has not failed yet.
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,254Member, Moderator El Moderator
    If paint gets on the inside, it's not a problem. It's brushed stainless steel. Just twist a scotchbrite pad inside going with the grain of the metal. You'll never notice because it blends in so well.
    how are you finishing inside lip? pictures?
  • Gotcha_coveredGotcha_covered Posts: 471Member ✭✭✭
    I tape the top on the inside down bout a inch then i take a red solo cup with just the rim split and shove it in and it stops just about 1/2 inch down. it stays there til it is cleared and ready for shipment
  • Gotcha_coveredGotcha_covered Posts: 471Member ✭✭✭
    I also use swim noodle cut 6 inches long and put a piece of 1 1/4 in. pvc pipe in it and thats what I use as handle to hold while painting rinseing drying and clearing.
  • Camo_CarbonHydroCamo_CarbonHydro Posts: 15Member, Business Ninja
    Do you blend the seAm or just leave it?
  • headhunter6headhunter6 Posts: 222Member ✭✭✭
    I Typically measure about 8th of a inch down from the top so I have room for the clear and to me it looks clean and it easier to clear cause it does not get inside. as far as the seam goes I just leave it. If you have a straight clean line for a seam it looks better than trying to fade it out with a airbrush.
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