ROUGHING UP POWDER COAT — K2Forums.com

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ROUGHING UP POWDER COAT

CoastalHydrographicsCoastalHydrographics Posts: 3,047Member ✭✭✭✭✭
edited February 2014 in Powder Coating
A friend that owns a motorcycle shop asked me if i could rough powder coat up enough to get good adhesion for a dip to stick. I told him that i would get back with him on that. I have a blast cabinet with glass beads in it now.I've tried taking powder coat off items in the past but with good adhesion its dam near impossible or would take a very long time.Is it possible for me to rough coated parts up good enough for a base like OHW to stick and then dip? I know once i blast a part i would have to be careful how i clean it up because i don't want to use anything thats going to react with the powder or even wiping it off with a cloth or tack rag.I would just like to know the right steps to take for good adhesion? I have a good feeling that I'm going to run into this a good bit but the best answers i can get will come from this forum. Thanks

Comments

  • liquidvisionsliquidvisions Posts: 137Member ✭✭
    This was all powder coated. I contacted jj about it bc i wasnt sure the best way to go about it. I roughed it up with 250 paper OHW base then dip. Came out pretty nice. I also painted the top Bite Orange OHW. i wasnt about to take the motor out of this thing so i just painted it
  • MasterjqxMasterjqx Posts: 990Member ✭✭✭
    Iv scuffed with dawn soap on powerdercoat... just need that little bite for OHW to grab.
  • CoastalHydrographicsCoastalHydrographics Posts: 3,047Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks guy's thats kinda what i was leaning to but it helps hearing from someone who has been there.I have a few friends that think they know every dam thing about anything but..I just don't trust their advice on this.lmao but its true %-(
  • GSPGSP Posts: 257Member ✭✭✭
    The OHW sticks better than anything else I've shot over powder. A little scuff and degrease, ready to spray. As far as trying to blast powder off, if the person that applied the powder knew what they were doing, its not happening. You would wind up hurting the item because of how aggressive the blast media needs to be to cut the powder. Its not worth the time, carefully use a strong paint stripper like B17. Like master said the OHW just needs a little grit to grab to.
  • Diecron_IncDiecron_Inc Posts: 54Member ✭✭
    Blasting off powder coating is very easy with the right equipment and media. Glass beads won't do it, but aluminum oxide and garnet will do it. We blast every day in a 30' booth w/garnet, sometimes its powder we applied if we find something wrong like trash, or we have had customers change their mind on color and pay us to do it again. With the right equipment its easier to blast off and reshoot the whole thing rather than try to sand and reshoot. We have blasted 8 mils of TGIC powder off of wheels before, a little slow but if done properly you will not hurt the part, assuming its not 16 ga or less.
  • kansashydrokansashydro Posts: 813Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    DTP needs no grit to bite to. I has a chemical etching bond. Wipe it off and shoot it!
  • blazingcoatingsblazingcoatings Posts: 413Member ✭✭✭
    I have been running a powder coat shop for many years and we have a 20ft blast room and a fire hose size blaster and we use Garnet on even aluminum. If you take you time blasting you can knock the powder coating off but it does require more time then blasting paint off. It also may profile the item and before powder coating or painting you would most likely need to hit with 220 grit to knock down all the peaks and craters. 
  • NewEraCoatingsNewEraCoatings Posts: 2Member
    We find it easier to burn the powder off then do a light blast to remove the ash. 
  • TCC2017TCC2017 Posts: 11Member
    I dip directly to powder coat. I find that a flat base works best and I dont even need to scuff. If my powder is gloss the I lightly scuff with 400 Grit sand paper just enough to remove the gloss.
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