Can you use spray paint in a can from the auto paint store? I have used several different types of spray paint from the can, most have worked others have not? I m using paint from the auto paint store since my OHW ran out and so did my cash trying to finish this nightmare project! And I can't figure out the reason why I keep failing! It appears to be under activation but I am dumping it on at least it looks like that to me! Last dip the film was all over the water I was suppose to have this done and shipped today but could not get the film to stick and help guys!
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Secondly? 3 day shipping isn't anything compared to the time you are going to spend striping that thing down and repainting it...and you are going to have to order the OHW anyways...so you haven't saved a thing...including time...
Thirdly? If you can't even get this bike done? Why in the world would you take on another 2? Honestly I am at a loss for words with this one...
Last but not least? As you have also found out? Not all films are created equal...that blue skulls is an especially difficult film to work with...much less on a larger part...heck even I have a hard time with that pattern...
Just because you can charge more for larger parts does not mean that you are making more...nor does it mean that THAT is where "the money" is at...Once you finish this bike? (if you finish it) You should take a real good look at your skills versus your business plan...no disrespect meant but I gotta call a spade a spade...This is like a step by step recipe for disaster...
That being said? First off go get yourself some OHW. Then tell us the following:
What size tip on the activator gun?
What pressure you shooting at?
What activator?
What temperature on the tank?
What soak time?
The only things we DO know are:
Paint SHOULD be OHW
Film is Blue Skulls...
And we still don't have any pictures of the problem areas...
Sounds like another aspiring professional.
These sort of things not only hurt you as a business, but this industry as a whole. Hydrographics is still fairly new to many people, and we have to try and sell them on our professional process while they can jump on YouTube and see 1000 people dip parts in a Rubbermaid tote. These situations don't help our case.
Business card + nobody in my area does this = "Business"
And to answer Jims questions:
What size tip on the activator gun? 1.4
What pressure you shooting at? 12-14 psi
What activator? K2-brew
What temperature on the tank? 90 degrees
What soak time? 60 seconds
The only things we DO know are:
Paint SHOULD be OHW - I m once again!
Film is Blue Skulls... From Kansas Hydrographics
Are you sure you are letting the paint to dry before you dip?
And a piece of advice, NEVER EVER EVER get a job if you haven't done a same project before with good result!
If you are going to use a rattle can then get OHW...at least it is formulated for what we do...
I use strictly solvent based automotive paint. I have no dip window. I have no paint issues. Is it more expensive than OHW? yes
Is it more expensive than Aqualac? Yes
Is it more expensive than Behr - Sherwin Williams and other latex paint? Absolutely
Does it ever fail? - NO
Can I get any color I need in 20 minutes or less? YES
Do I have to pay shipping? NO
Time is money
Can they put a custom 2 stage paint into a rattle can for a small job for less than $20 and will it turn out exactly like the same part I painted with my Iwata Super Nova from a $350 gallon of paint from my shelf? YES - Let me repeat that - YES
If I am doing a custom color on a small part, I don't hesitate. Cheaper than a pint, doesn't dry up and I don't waste a PPS cup. It is a NO BRAINER!
I can't vouch for water based paint as I don't use it, maybe this is the propellant issue mixing with the water base? IDK
All I know is rattle can 2 stage solvent based paint works and I don't care if you are using it on a valve cover, a door handle, a glock or a vibrator.
If someone mixes up a automotive or 2K type of paint and THEN puts it into a can for you to use? Then yes it will work...it is merely an extension of what we already normally use...automotive solvent based paints...
But for something just off the shelf like "Krylon" or "RustOleum" or other off the shelf brands? I have yet to see one act reliably and consistently for our trade...YET...and not just a "Oh I got it to work for me...once" kinda story...I mean reliably and consistently...
And as for any of the above mentioned paints? I have used them all and we have never had a paint failure come back to us...hell I painted 14,000 controllers a year for 3 years straight and never had one fail or come back to us...do we use $350 a gallon paint? Oh hell no...just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's good...just means it's expensive...lol...
To clarify Jim I wasn't trying to insinuate that you have paint failures. I know you know your stuff.
In the very beginning, I made a business decision on consistency. Again not saying you can't get consistent results using 4 different types of paint however using one keeps everything smooth and consistent in my shop.
Good info as usual.
My post was basically compelled by this post: And the posts that followed..
And yes I am sorry for snapping back...now that Smitty is gone? I kinda feel the urge...lol...
What Happened to Smitty? Did I miss something?
As far as water based paints here is my small experience with them.
I have used createx auto air colors for airbrushing and tried to use them for hydrographics couple of times with a touch up gun with 0.8 tip.
The only thing that I liked if paint drops onto your skin you can just wash with water to remove.
The things that I didn't like:
Takes a lot longer to dry.
I have tried to wipe water based paint with silicon remover and I saw paint residue onto the cloth that I used to wipe the painted part which means that paint reacted with silicon remover.
I have decided that 2K acrylic paint is the way to go for me.