Brutal Hydrographics' first sale of Aqualac Paint — K2Forums.com

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Brutal Hydrographics' first sale of Aqualac Paint

WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,012Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
Thanks to @DavidP for sticking with us and being such a fan of Prime Coatings Aqualac Paint. Check out www.brutalhydrographicsllc.com. Look for the video announcement being posted as I type this.

Comments

  • DavidPDavidP Posts: 286Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭
    Its well worth the wait.
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 12,944Administrator El Jefe
    Secret's out...
  • jtcustomsjtcustoms Posts: 137Member ✭✭✭
    Just what the doctor ordered! Looking forward to trying this out
  • BotoHydrographicsBotoHydrographics Posts: 126Member ✭✭
    Hello...

    Quick and probably dumb question
    I googled aqualac in Portugal and i get house interior paint....this is not the same is it??
    Tnx
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 12,944Administrator El Jefe
    No it is not the same...
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,012Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    jtcustoms said:

    Just what the doctor ordered! Looking forward to trying this out

    This is a great paint that has been around for a few years now specifically made for hydrographics, We have demonstrated it at the remote last year in Kansas and in Ohio, We will be releasing videos soon about gun set-up (easy) and techniques for spraying.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,012Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    edited April 2015

    Hello...

    Quick and probably dumb question
    I googled aqualac in Portugal and i get house interior paint....this is not the same is it??
    Tnx

    There are ALOT of paints made out there that use the Aqualac name, This particular paint is made by Prime Coatings in Pewaukee Wisconsin, SPECIFICALLY for Hydrographics. I have done business with them for over 20 years with many other products, and Brutal Hydrographics has used this paint for 5 years.
    Post edited by brutal_1 on
  • BotoHydrographicsBotoHydrographics Posts: 126Member ✭✭
    OK....i assumed i was wrong....
    Tnx ;)
  • loopedoutloopedout Posts: 115Member ✭✭
    Best paint hands down for doing hydro.  It lays down great, sprays awesome and I've been painting for almost 20 yrs.  If you're using anything else you're making it harder on yourself than it needs to be. 
  • brutal_1brutal_1 Posts: 386Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    loopedout said:
    Best paint hands down for doing hydro.  It lays down great, sprays awesome and I've been painting for almost 20 yrs.  If you're using anything else you're making it harder on yourself than it needs to be. 
    Brutally awesome!

  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 12,944Administrator El Jefe
    Bump...
  • IceMasterIceMaster Posts: 1,309Member ✭✭✭✭
    Is this a primer/paint all in one like OHW or do you need to prime parts first?
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,079Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    @IceMaster you will need to prime bare metal, and use adhesion promoter on plastics. But I would encourage you to test all the plastics with and without promoter. You may not need it.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,012Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    edited May 2015
    @IceMaster @MidOhioHydrographics is right. Sometimes the paint sticks pretty well to a certain formulation of a plastic. Luckily for him, he happens to have a particular formulation that works pretty well.

    For painting to plastic Prime Coatings has something they call their "Poly Pro Primer" but what it actually is, is an adhesion promoter. It is a solvent based formula that you spray a light coat onto the surface of the plastic (after heat treating and/or scuffing like all paints require) and just wait about 5 minutes for it to dry. Then paint right over the top of it. (think of it as activator for your paint, that you wait a bit longer for) Most guys who use it for production find that when they spray a rack full of parts they can start painting by the time they are done with the adhesion promoter. We will be doing some demonstrations and crosshatch testing videos once we get the packaging in house and can release it for sale. We are very close to being able to offer this, the material is at least in house.

    Now DTM (direct to metal) is a different story. The thing that most people like about the paint (its water based and safer to spray around your family and pets) actually works against it here. Put something water based on bare steel, and you are gonna get rust. In Kansas, we used OHW to seal the material, and then went Aqualac over the top of that, and it worked perfectly. One great thing about that was the color of the OHW could be picked based on what the Aqualac was that was going over the top of it. It turned out to be a great way to make sure you had complete coverage if you could see the red OHW through the white Aqualac.

    That all being said, @brutal_1 and I will be going back to the lab in the next week or two, to do some testing on some DTM Aqualac. It can be colored to any of the tints that we currently have, and can be dipped to. It is a bit more expensive to have around, so we are going to stick to the 35 series to color over the top and just keep one color around for "primer"

    We by no means dislike "One Hit Wonder" in any way. Its a great paint, and it is a great company run by very good people. We feel that Aqualac is simply an easy paint to use for new and experienced painters. It lays down how we have all learned to spray paint for years. You can lay it on thick and get great results, you can tweek your gun and use minimal material like a pro. We have painted with this paint for 5 years and have never had a failure yet that we couldn't trace to operator error.... (RIEBE). And again, its water based. Most dippers are spraying in their garages, or a building on their property, some even in their homes or basements. The knowledge that they are using a paint that isn't solvent based makes a lot of sense to them.
    Post edited by brutal_1 on
  • DallenDallen Posts: 1,691Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭
    + it is a lot more activator friendly
  • SingleAction52SingleAction52 Posts: 688Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭

    @IceMaster @MidOhioHydrographics is right. Sometimes the paint sticks pretty well to a certain formulation of a plastic. Luckily for him, he happens to have a particular formulation that works pretty well.

    For painting to plastic Prime Coatings has something they call their "Poly Pro Primer" but what it actually is, is an adhesion promoter. It is a solvent based formula that you spray a (((light coat onto the surface of the plastic))) (after heat treating and/or scuffing like all paints require)))) and just wait about 5 minutes for it to dry. Then paint right over the top of it. ((((think of it as activator for your paint, that you wait a bit longer for) Most guys who use it for production find that when they spray a rack full of parts they can start painting by the time they are done with the adhesion promoter. We will be doing some demonstrations and crosshatch testing videos once we get the packaging in house and can release it for sale. We are very close to being able to offer this, the material is at least in house.

    @WileECoyote, define light please. Is it procedurally a misting, like spraying activator, or akin to a light coat of paint?

  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,012Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    @SingleAction52 nope, like activator. Just have to get it misted. The surface should be evenly wetted but not soaked.
  • RDSHydroRDSHydro Posts: 1,672Member ✭✭✭✭
    brutal_1 said:


    loopedout said:

    Best paint hands down for doing hydro.  It lays down great, sprays awesome and I've been painting for almost 20 yrs.  If you're using anything else you're making it harder on yourself than it needs to be. 
    Brutally awesome!



    What clears are you spraying over the acqualac?

  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,079Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    edited May 2015
    RDSHydro said:



    What clears are you spraying over the acqualac?

    @RDSHydro any clear should be fine. We've used three different matte clears (PCL 26, NanoChem Zero Gloss, Prime Coatings Diamond Matte) and a few gloss clears (MasterPro from Kansas Hydro, OHW Gloss). No issues at all.

    We have noticed that sometimes the Aqualac can have a rough finish after one coat (pretty sure it's our application technique) but it sands out very nicely with 800-1000 grit. We lay a Second wet coat and then it feels super smooth. Talking about the Aqualac paint itself, not clear.
  • RDSHydroRDSHydro Posts: 1,672Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited May 2015
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 12,944Administrator El Jefe
    Just as a side note? I have used this paint since 2006 and still use it almost everyday here at the shop...depending on the project? I use both the OHW and the Aqualac...for us" There is no "silver bullet" one paint that does everything we need it to do...there are more than just "Hey we like this paint" factors going on...budget, appearance and reduction in production times all factor into what we pcik for each project...but it's a great paint and you guys are going to love it!

    @MidOhioHydrographics yes you have a application problem...you should not need to sand the Aqualac...what size tip on the gun and what air pressure?
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,079Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    edited May 2015
    @K2Concepts Using a Devilbiss FLG4 1.5 tip @ 30psi. But upgrading the gun very soon. It's weird. If The first coat is a bit rough, we sand it , second coat is super smooth. I honestly think it's the substrate, and the paint amplifies the little bit of roughness.
  • wicked_dipzwicked_dipz Posts: 564Member ✭✭✭
    Just to make sure I have this right. I use nothing but ppg. Now I know that this paint has to be thicker then urethane base coat. There is a set of parts I do that has more texture then I like. Im wondering if I couldnt epoxy prime the parts as usual then put 3 coats of this on and 3 coats of clear. I always wetsand and reclear to remove texture but these pieces its just a little more texture then you can get rid of that way. Could I sand then follow up with ppg base coat and clear.
  • PitbullPitbull Posts: 216Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭
    wicked...what type of dip window do you get with the PPG
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,012Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    RDSHydro said:
    loopedout said:
    Best paint hands down for doing hydro.  It lays down great, sprays awesome and I've been painting for almost 20 yrs.  If you're using anything else you're making it harder on yourself than it needs to be. 
    Brutally awesome!

    What clears are you spraying over the acqualac?
    We are currently using their diamond coat matte and gloss clear. We will be offering it soon, it is a solvent base. We are also working on a water based clear. We should be hitting the lab again before the end of the month.
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 12,944Administrator El Jefe
    RDSHydro said:

    brutal_1 said:


    loopedout said:

    Best paint hands down for doing hydro.  It lays down great, sprays awesome and I've been painting for almost 20 yrs.  If you're using anything else you're making it harder on yourself than it needs to be. 
    Brutally awesome!

    What clears are you spraying over the acqualac?



    I have used at least 12 different clears, gloss and flat, in the last 9 years...never had a single delamination problem...ever...
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,012Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator

    Just to make sure I have this right. I use nothing but ppg. Now I know that this paint has to be thicker then urethane base coat. There is a set of parts I do that has more texture then I like. Im wondering if I couldnt epoxy prime the parts as usual then put 3 coats of this on and 3 coats of clear. I always wetsand and reclear to remove texture but these pieces its just a little more texture then you can get rid of that way. Could I sand then follow up with ppg base coat and clear.
    Yes you can, the paint goes on a little bit thicker then some others. If you let it thicken up a little you could possibly use it as a build coat filler. It sands very easy and comes out smooth as glass if you use 1000 grit. I guess give it a try and see if you like it. We do!
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