New to this from Montana.

ShawnssShawnss Posts: 7Member
Hello, All 
 First of all this page has been great. It has really helped with a few of the issues I had on my first dip. The older post and threads are really nice. 

I had always been interested in the hydrographics process but never tried it out. I've been a garage powder coater for about a year now and figured I'd give it a shot as I came across a guy selling his hydrographics setup and few hours from me. 

 I ended up with a PA hydrographics tank 6x4, AZ3 1.8 activator gun, his paints and clears along with 32 different rolls of film and a 8x3 rinse tank. AlI around a good starter package. Plan is to just perfect it as much as possible before I really offer any sort of serves at all. I'm super picky so I have a pile of pieces to practice on of my own to test and tune. 

Heres a few of my first pieces. All the flat panels are dipped over powder coat and rest are plastic speed shapes. Not perfect but I'm making head way for sure and this forum is to thank for that. 

I know theres gonna be mistakes along the way that's just part of learning but it's what you take from those mistakes that is important to advance from. 

Comments

  • ShawnssShawnss Posts: 7Member
  • DeviousDipsDeviousDips Posts: 1,683Member ✭✭✭✭
    Welcome. Looking good
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,444Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Looks like you’re on the right track!! Welcome.
  • ShawnssShawnss Posts: 7Member
    Buddy wanted to dip his cooler lid so we gave it a shot. Turned out much better then expected being the first larger piece. Will clear it tomorrow. 
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,444Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Cooler lid looks great! How did you prep it?
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,481Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Keep in mind, dip won't stick directly to cured powdercoat, but that's a good start for equipment. Read up on alot more posts, you will get going in the right direction.
  • smedlinsmedlin Posts: 1,901Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    Howdy and welcome to the forums!
  • ShawnssShawnss Posts: 7Member
    Cooler lid looks great! How did you prep it?
    Cooler we acetone cleaned, sanded it, used adhesive promoted, primed/base coat and dipped. Will clear next. We honestly aren't expecting great results.but being it's a camping/hunting cooler we knew the chances of it not holding well. It was more less to test a larger piece. 
  • ShawnssShawnss Posts: 7Member
    edited November 4
    Keep in mind, dip won't stick directly to cured powdercoat, but that's a good start for equipment. Read up on alot more posts, you will get going in the right direction.
     Yeah it seems to like about a 5-10min cure time for the dip to stick. I did a ton of reading on here to correct that and even asked a few guys on IG how they were having good luck. I botched a few test pieces right away. I found letting the dip air dry for 12+ hours before adding a clear PC top coat works better also. Heres a few all powdercoat piece from PC base coat to PC clear topcoat. 
  • NickelCityHydroNickelCityHydro Posts: 686Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭
    Welcome to the forum!
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,444Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Shawnss said:



    Cooler lid looks great! How did you prep it?

    Cooler we acetone cleaned, sanded it, used adhesive promoted, primed/base coat and dipped. Will clear next. We honestly aren't expecting great results.but being it's a camping/hunting cooler we knew the chances of it not holding well. It was more less to test a larger piece. 

    Most coolers are Polyethylene and require flame treatment for proper adhesion. Should do fine for a while, but I’d guess if you did a cross hatch test after painting it would fail. Polyethylene parts are a pain in the butt. And we are about to start getting them by the pallet. LOL.
  • ShawnssShawnss Posts: 7Member
    Cooler lid looks great! How did you prep it?
    Cooler we acetone cleaned, sanded it, used adhesive promoted, primed/base coat and dipped. Will clear next. We honestly aren't expecting great results.but being it's a camping/hunting cooler we knew the chances of it not holding well. It was more less to test a larger piece. 
    Most coolers are Polyethylene and require flame treatment for proper adhesion. Should do fine for a while, but I’d guess if you did a cross hatch test after painting it would fail. Polyethylene parts are a pain in the butt. And we are about to start getting them by the pallet. LOL.
    Ok thanks for the information. I bet you're right as for the cross hatch test. Probably end up redoing it at some point. But since it was a free Polaris cooler he wanted to give it a whirl. Looks like I'll be digging into some threads about plastic adhesive methods. 
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,444Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
  • ShawnssShawnss Posts: 7Member
    Finally got some paint now I can try dipping on something other then speed shapes and PC stuff. 
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