Okay to clear coat after a few weeks?

I dipped a part a few weeks ago, and due to life circumstances, I wasn't able to apply my 2k clear coat.

Is there any problem with applying the clear coat this long after dipping? If so what issues might I run into?

Comments

  • SreynoldsSreynolds Posts: 1,477Member ✭✭✭✭
    What paint?
  • AngryRedBarberAngryRedBarber Posts: 7Member
    Sreynolds, the film is PRYM1 and the base coat is OHW.
  • SreynoldsSreynolds Posts: 1,477Member ✭✭✭✭
    I would say you are still good to go with OHW..... @onehitwonder ?
  • IceMasterIceMaster Posts: 1,335Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited April 2018

    OHW has a 2 week clear window after dip

    Activator is almost pure reducer/thinner/etc., and has a far greater chemical impact on our paint than the clear does, which settles on the paint and cures. As our paint begins to harden, the clear has less chemical impact over the course of 2 weeks, while activator is virtually unaffected

  • AngryRedBarberAngryRedBarber Posts: 7Member
    Thanks!
  • abrantabrant Posts: 29Member
    would it be recommended to dust it off or anything like that before clear coat after so long?
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 13,647Administrator El Jefe
    abrant said:

    would it be recommended to dust it off or anything like that before clear coat after so long?

    Of course...tack cloth and PrepAll minimum...
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    edited January 13
    I dipped parts 1 month ago and i didnt clear coated them..will this be a problem?

    Post edited by asdasdasd on
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,765Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    @asdasdasd If the window on the paint is closed up, yes... it would be a problem. Not knowing what paint you used, I have no idea. Check your TDS on the paint and you should be able to find the information.
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member

    @asdasdasd If the window on the paint is closed up, yes... it would be a problem. Not knowing what paint you used, I have no idea. Check your TDS on the paint and you should be able to find the information.

    and what will be the problem?The paint wont accept the clear?
  • SreynoldsSreynolds Posts: 1,477Member ✭✭✭✭
    @asdasdasd the pours in the paint will close.... after that the clear is not going to bond to the paint. Its a chemical bond that is happening and the only other way is to scuff and spray the clear....
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    Sreynolds said:

    @asdasdasd the pours in the paint will close.... after that the clear is not going to bond to the paint. Its a chemical bond that is happening and the only other way is to scuff and spray the clear....

    Ok i will slightly scuff it and apply the clear,but will it work good enough
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,733Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    asdasdasd said:

    Sreynolds said:

    @asdasdasd the pours in the paint will close.... after that the clear is not going to bond to the paint. Its a chemical bond that is happening and the only other way is to scuff and spray the clear....

    Ok i will slightly scuff it and apply the clear,but will it work good enough
    You don’t need to slightly scuff, you need to thoroughly scuff to create a mechanical bond.
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    @asdasdasd the pours in the paint will close.... after that the clear is not going to bond to the paint. Its a chemical bond that is happening and the only other way is to scuff and spray the clear....
    Ok i will slightly scuff it and apply the clear,but will it work good enough
    You don’t need to slightly scuff, you need to thoroughly scuff to create a mechanical bond.
    But in this way i think i will destroy the pattern
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,733Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Correct. Even a light scuff will damage the pattern. If you dip a part but miss the topcoat window, it will need completely redone. You will need to just scuff/sand, repaint, and re-dip the item then topcoat it within the specified window of the paint you are using.
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    edited January 25
    Ahhhh....so i think the clear will peel off very easily
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,733Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Yes. That is correct.

    To summarize for you and others who may be reading this thread, there are only two ways to get a bond when coating. This can be a bond between a coating and the substrate (painting a part) or between topcoat and paint (applying clear over paint or a dipped part).

    (1) Mechanical - examples: Sandblasting a part prior to painting, scuffing a previously dipped part for re-painting, sanding a previously clear coated part to smooth it and allow for a bond for following coats. Basically you are creating small sanding scratches or undercuts in the substrate to allow the paint to hook into.

    (2) Chemical - examples: Self-etching primer, bonding of film into the paint, bonding of paint/film/clear to ABS plastic, bonding of coats of paint within the recoat window, bonding of clear into paint that is within the window. You are allowing a chemical to basically "melt" into the layer below it chemically, rather than needing some other etch/sanding to facilitate the bond.

    You have to pick one or the other, or a combination of the two. If one of those doesn't exist, then you risk delamination, or as you put it, "the clear will peel off very easily"
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member

    I made them a month ago and they turned out perfect,but now i have to redo them...im still learning from my mistakes
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    All of all thank u guys for the help
  • SreynoldsSreynolds Posts: 1,477Member ✭✭✭✭
    Well at least those are easy to redo lol.....
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    Sreynolds said:
    Well at least those are easy to redo lol.....
    Yes but I am on a zero profit if i redo them
  • SreynoldsSreynolds Posts: 1,477Member ✭✭✭✭
    We all been there bro.... IM NOT BAD MOUTHING U .... but whos fault is it ? So u take a chance and clear it or redo it and try to come out even...
  • SreynoldsSreynolds Posts: 1,477Member ✭✭✭✭
    Wait a minute... U said its a OHW base??? U may be ok ... @onehitwonder ??
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    Sreynolds said:
    Wait a minute... U said its a OHW base??? U may be ok ... @onehitwonder ??
    Automotive paint
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,733Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Yep... Rework is the most costly part of this business. Minimizing that is key.
  • asdasdasdasdasdasd Posts: 49Member
    Thanks guys!!!✌
  • loochlooch Posts: 1,820Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome to the wonderful world of hydrographics lol
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,733Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    looch said:

    Welcome to the wonderful world of hydrographics lol

    Yep... even when you think you have it figured out and have thousands of parts to run? Stuff still hits the fan w something... it’s ALWAYS something....
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,765Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    asdasdasd said:

    Yes but I am on a zero profit if i redo them

    This is the sort of thing that people who are seeing this on YouTube overlook. The products don't care, sorry... you just worked for free today.
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