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Rinse Help

PQCPQC Posts: 2Member
Hi new here,
I use the diy kits at home on items and get pretty good results but one thing bothers me how do you rinse properly?
I no I need to get all the pva glue of the item and not leave it on.
After I’ve dipped the item I rinse it under some warm water but the glue doesn’t wash off without touching it and wiping it off with my hands?
Any tips?
Thanks.

Comments

  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,932Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    More time and volume, and use slightly warm water.
  • smedlinsmedlin Posts: 1,438Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭
    edited January 7
    it does not rinse off right away.

    it takes a bit. And like Mid said, increase the spray.

    if you did it right, you can NOT spray the film off. If the film comes off while spraying, something went wrong.

    (course, does not mean to take a fire hose to it!)
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,147Member, Moderator El Moderator
    Warm water, but not warmer than your dip water. It could take as much as 5 minutes to rinse fully. NEVER touch the film after you dip it. It will either smear or if it doesn't, then everything was perfect and you didn't need to touch it in the first place.
  • dipdemondipdemon Posts: 109Member ✭✭✭
    rinsing is my lest favorite thing about dipping .
    Sometimes it takes forever .
    Ever seen the video on Utube where the guy dips 1/2 a golf cart does not rinse it lets it dry then dips the other side and then rinse both sides off at the same time.
    There is absolutely no way he get's all that dried PVA to washed off
    In China they dip in cold water then they have bucket's of clean water that they dip the dipped item in twice ( in like 2 sec ) to remove the PVA its crazy , Thats why a lot of people who buy's decorated stuff from china thinks that over time the clear coat is cheap and going bad when actually it is the PVA that they did not completely rise off is turning cloudy white
    If you are not decorating anything that will not be outside getting rained on etc, if you do not get all the PVA off you will probity never notice most dipped items are not 100% clean of PVA but you still should do the best job you can with no noticeable PVA residue
    if you dip something like a ATV or Golf cart especially in a pattern like black carbon fiber when you wash it off or it gets rained on on a summers day the sun will make the wet PVA turn milky white
    again most people think this is a clear coat problem.
    At our shop when we decorate ATVS etc we rinse with so hot water we must wear thick gloves not to get burned.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,932Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    dipdemon said:


    At our shop when we decorate ATVS etc we rinse with so hot water we must wear thick gloves not to get burned.

    No problem with the inks fading? You can "burn" the film if rinse water is too hot. This is why most suggest to keep your rinse water temp slightly lower than tank water. BUT... I have never seen this first hand since my water is never that hot. But I do know that if my tank water is too hot, fading can be a real issue.
  • PQCPQC Posts: 2Member
    Hey thanks for the suggestions. I’ll try them next time I do a dip!
  • SmittySmitty Posts: 731Member ✭✭✭✭

    dipdemon said:


    At our shop when we decorate ATVS etc we rinse with so hot water we must wear thick gloves not to get burned.

    No problem with the inks fading? You can "burn" the film if rinse water is too hot. This is why most suggest to keep your rinse water temp slightly lower than tank water. BUT... I have never seen this first hand since my water is never that hot. But I do know that if my tank water is too hot, fading can be a real issue.
    I rinse as hot as I can tolerate. I've never seen a burning or fading, the warmer water also quickens the PVA removal. I heard the fading idea before but have never witnessed it.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,932Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Nice. Maybe it's not as much of an issue as others make it out to be. About to crank the temp on my conveyor and see what happens! LOL
  • PagesHydroDippingPagesHydroDipping Posts: 321Member ✭✭✭
    Me and you both @MidOhioHydrographics. Im gonna turn up the temp and see what happens. I've always read keep it colder than dip water so i have always done so
  • studebakerstudebaker Posts: 2,847Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    Agitation of the water during the rinse cycle is what accelerates the dissolution of the PVA residue. Whether you "agitate" the molecules of water with heat or physically agitate it with a spray system, either/both methodologies accelerates the rinse cycle.

    There are ultrasonic rinse tanks being used by some of the Chinese hydrographic companies. The ultrasonics both, heat the water and agitate the PVA for a quicker rinse cycle. Although you still need to "clear water" rinse after that process because the ultrasonic tank water is totally saturated with PVA.

    "Ink fade" is a function of how well the ink is sticking to the base coat. If some ink particulates come off with the PVA the print will appear faded. That too is a function of the proper activator levels. Too much activator and the basecoat hasn't solidified enough to hold all the ink before the rinse cycle. Too little activator and the ink wasn't fully melted back to its liquid state leaving solid ink particulates that weren't part of the liquid ink "pool". Hence, unattached ink particles that will rinse away, leaving a faded look.

    That is why hydrographics is considered an art, there are so many variables that only the "dipping instinct" can deal with it! Some people can hit that perfect activator level every time, and some folks have to figure it out anew every day.
  • K2ConceptsK2Concepts Posts: 12,761Administrator El Jefe
    You guys are funny...
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,147Member, Moderator El Moderator

    You guys are funny...


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