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Hard hats

How's it going out there. I have a few questions about dipping hard hats and hopefully I can get some tips. My process is to flame treatment then straight to the base color then dip then clear coat. The hard hats come out good but I do get a few customers saying that the paint is flaking off seems kinda weird but I just want to be sure that the paint is going to stick good. How do you guys out there prep your hard hats if you don't mind helping a fellow dipper

Comments

  • smedlinsmedlin Posts: 1,232Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭
    What paint are you using?

    Most paints will need to prime before you paint.

    Also.. hmm... are you not blasting them? Gotta blast it (or sand it by hand).

    Gotta have some scratches for the primer (or paint) to grab hold of.



    .



  • daricksta619daricksta619 Posts: 74Member ✭✭
    @smedlin I use the one hit wonder. I was thinking if giving the hard hats a good sanding but I don't want to scratch it up. Which type of sand paper should I use 400? 500? 1000?
  • DeviousDipsDeviousDips Posts: 1,215Member ✭✭✭✭
    @daricksta619 you could probably get away with scuffin with a scotch Brite. I sand blast mine but you just need a profile to adhere too
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,147Member, Moderator El Moderator
    On most things, 400 will allow the paint to bite and will be covered by the paint and clear to end up smooth.
  • smedlinsmedlin Posts: 1,232Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭

    For hard hats, use 320 get sandpaper and remove the shine off the hat.

    Edges are VERY important, as are all the ridges.

    This is quite laborious. DO NOT skimp on the quality just because your arm is tired...

    This is why your paint is lifting. Any area you DON'T sand, any corner, any edge, you risk the paint lifting.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,784Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Yeah. Blasting is much more efficient on things w many nooks and crannies. To me a blaster is an essential tool for this process. Even a cheapie will most likely get the in tight areas better and faster than a scuff pad by hand.
  • mielkewaygraphicsmielkewaygraphics Posts: 138Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭

    Yeah. Blasting is much more efficient on things w many nooks and crannies. To me a blaster is an essential tool for this process. Even a cheapie will most likely get the in tight areas better and faster than a scuff pad by hand.

    Hey buddy, what media do you suggest. I don't have a Caddy like at your shop. Mine is more like the "K " car version. :)
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,631Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    And make sure you flame treat properly- a new hard hat may take up to 8 or more passes
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,784Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    @mielkewaygraphics LOL I won't change from Aluminum Oxide. Anywhere between 80-100 grit and you're golden. It's kind of aggressive, but just turn down the pressure if blasting plastic. That's all we use. Started w/ 80 grit and switched to 100 grit since that's what Cerakote recommends. Either works great for creating a good profile for paint.
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