Bad Wrap On TWN Film (film and activator)

Mark78PMark78P Posts: 11Member
I'm a hydrographics manager of 20 years, recently we had a different kind of film, its thicker that the usual stuff we use, which makes it(the film) incompatible with the current production activator, and when i go to Dip these parts i have lots of entry pinholes and horrible bad wrap because the film is so thick and not activated. I'm dipping later, slow down all my transfer methods, etc. and the end result is still the same. Is their anyway i can add something to my current activator to help with the wrap?


  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,404Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Welcome! How about some other info. What is your production activator? Are you applying with an HVLP gun or automated? What is the water temperature and soak time? Which TWN film is it? Photos would help a great deal also.

    Thicker PVA often just means it needs a longer soak time or bump your water temp up a few degrees. Some dwell time after activator application could help as well.

    Since this is a production environment and this may be sensitive information to post out on the open forum, feel free to email me ([email protected]) and we can try and work through it that way if you prefer.
  • studebakerstudebaker Posts: 3,021Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    40 Micron production film REQUIRES much more hydration time. Usually 180 - 240 seconds. Also, use a cool activator (Superbrew, Ink Drink, Mossy Sauce) and apply at the 180-second mark as opposed to the usual 60 second mark for 30 micron film.

    Adding something to the activator is NOT the way to fix your dilemma.
  • Mark78PMark78P Posts: 11Member
    So my process involves a gravure cylinder not any type of spray activation, I've dipped later, adjusted the wait before dipping  (to help with activation) and still have bad wrap!!!!
  • Mark78PMark78P Posts: 11Member
    I use a Haviland activator which is a version of Japanese activator from DMP.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,404Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    edited October 2017
    Unfortunately not many (may not ANY) members here have experience with this type of automated application. Have you tried contacting the machine manufacturer to see if they can give you advice? The only person that I’ve had discussions with about these systems was Lamie Haga at Immersion Graphics. He may or may not help you out. He has helped to instal the automated Q5 and Q10 systems around the world. Immersion is Realtree’s hydrographics company and they are all very knowledgeable.

    I also know that Liquid Print distributes an automated system similar to those systems. I’m not sure of their exact method of activator application, though.

    I’m sorry I can’t be of more help!
    Post edited by MidOhioHydrographics on
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,403Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    I would add some activator by gun if this is a temporary thing just to get the job done. If this is something that you need to work permanently, I would get some help from the manufacturer of the activator applicator.
  • studebakerstudebaker Posts: 3,021Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    The 40-micron production film CANNOT be "preactivated" before laying on the water. It REQUIRES a long hydration time, but your activator will evaporate off and let the ink dry back up, before the film is hydrated to the proper level. You MUST activate at the 180-second mark of hydration time or you will continue having a "Bad Wrap" problem. The Activator from DPM is only good for 90 seconds before it evaporates away.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 6,403Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Well that sure makes sense! Thanks @studebaker

  • Mark78PMark78P Posts: 11Member
    @studebaker thanks a bunch my friend, that bit of info helps me tremendously.
Sign In or Register to comment.