Wondering what everyone uses, and thinks are the best, for clear coats / top coats? — K2Forums.com

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Wondering what everyone uses, and thinks are the best, for clear coats / top coats?

mcguiremcguire Posts: 8Member
I am very new to the industry. Just attended a very informative training class given by fantastic people, and there was a clear coat recommended and used during training. It works fantastically, but I do find that it is quite pricey. I was wondering if there are other recommendations out there? Equally, if there is any advice of particular ones I should stay away from.

Comments

  • versuspaintversuspaint Posts: 189Member ✭✭✭
    Depends on what you consider pricey.
    Transtar 7211/7226 works well, is resonable and is super easy to spray. This is what I have the newer painters start out with.
    I also just tried Metalux clear, 9701, and it sprayed really good, had awesome flow and gloss retention. For the bigger and better jobs we spray RM 5300 or 5335 both are amazing clears but a little pricey.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 5,857Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    You can make just about any "Automotive" 2K clear work. Pick one and learn it. Care to let us know who you took training from? This sounds like a common misconception.
  • mcguiremcguire Posts: 8Member
    The company I trained with was great; I don't want this to sound like they led me in the wrong direction. They were amazing. I guess what I should have said was that right now I am still in "practice" mode until my confidence is ready for customers, and I think the clear coat we used in class was a little pricey for what I am using it for right now.

    Thank you both so much for your input. I really do appreciate it. This forum has been a wonderful source of knowledge and advice, and I hope to contribute to some great discussions in the near future.
  • WileECoyoteWileECoyote Posts: 5,857Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    All good. It sounded like a company we have experience with that leads its customers to believe theirs are the ONLY products that work with their process... Like each product they have was specifically formulated for each other.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,941Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    We like our UTECH 4.0 that I get from Marc Devaud. Great stuff and reasonably priced. We use that primarily for the first few coats. Sand smooth, then final flow coat with more expensive clear (PPG Deltron DC2000) due to its very fast cure time. Helps cut down on the nibs.
  • mcguiremcguire Posts: 8Member
    Thanks for the tip. I am really grateful for all of the advice I've been given today.
  • onehitwonderonehitwonder Posts: 2,663Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    Try our OHW clear - tried and tested, and a great price
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,941Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Should be noted that I have used OHW sand Big brain glamour gloss with fantastic results. And I would recommend either 100%. Both very high quality, very glassy clears. Since I have an open faced booth with no intake filtration, the cure time is the only reason I prefer the DC2000
  • NotSoFastNotSoFast Posts: 3,147Member, Moderator El Moderator
    I use OHW gloss and Big Brain's Dead Flat clears. Love both of them.
  • AngryRedBarberAngryRedBarber Posts: 7Member
    Dumb noob question but what is wrong with minwax polyurethane semi gloss?  I used it on a dip I did for myself and was happy with the result. 
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 8,941Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator

    Dumb noob question but what is wrong with minwax polyurethane semi gloss?  I used it on a dip I did for myself and was happy with the result. 

    @AngryRedBarber Not going to hold up. Any rattle can from the big box stores aren’t going to be your best bet. They are single stage (no hardener) and therefore not near as chemical resistant. Topcoats designed for this application (like automotive and industrial clears) are designed to bite into the base coat and bond chemically with it. I doubt your polyurethane is doing that correctly, though I cannot say 100%.

    If you’re just having fun? Use whatever you can get your hands on, but remember it will likely fail down the road.
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