Best way to dip a ribbed barrel.

bweidlerbweidler Posts: 9Member
Ive tried watching the videos from Ryan on this site but they say they are unavailable. Am I doing something wrong.


  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,404Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    edited April 2017
    Plug both ends, make sure you mask where it goes back into the receiver before prep/paint. Hold about a 25-30 degree angle, we start at the front of the barrel, and go straight down w/ the rib down. Go quick. Should take about a count of "one thousand one" to complete the entire dip. Also helps to tape the long sides of the film completely. If the film sticks to the dams and it stretches it will sometimes void and not "zipper" up the bottom as well. The tape actually allows the sides to pull in quickly when you dip and you get a beautiful seam. Usually some touch up on the bottom of the mag tube ring. You will always have some touch up, but going quick works well to help it zipper up the bottom.
  • bweidlerbweidler Posts: 9Member
    Thanks! My first try I think I went to slow and maybe not enough activator. Did not wrap under the rib very well.
  • MidOhioHydrographicsMidOhioHydrographics Posts: 9,404Member, Moderator, Business Ninja El Moderator
    Definitely have to activate properly. That's essential
  • Archer0545Archer0545 Posts: 806Member ✭✭✭
    The ribs are tough, even when properly activated. I usually end up touching them up with an airbrush and some small model paint brushes to just continue the look of the pattern going under if there are voids. All you need is enough to keep from drawing your eye to it.
  • bweidlerbweidler Posts: 9Member
    Thanks for the info! Im just getting started with dipping. Have done some deer skulls and tumblers but really want to get into the guns. Right now I'm buying films from Ebay and mainly using Hydrovator from southern hydrographics along with there films. Ok results but next question is are these films and the activator inferior to say TWN's films and there activator. Also I've been playing around with Shiz activator and not the best results with my films. I have a million questions but will start with these. Any input is greatly appreciated. One more. Southern hydro sells activator called hydrovater. I see big brains also sells hydrovator. Are they the same?
  • Gotcha_coveredGotcha_covered Posts: 471Member ✭✭✭
    Alot of sponsors sell films and I've had best overall results with superbrew activator sprayed from air gunsa 1.8 tip
  • loochlooch Posts: 1,732Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Your on a forum with some great sponsors scroll down in the general section and try them they are all stand up people and will help you if you have any questions or problems 
  • Archer0545Archer0545 Posts: 806Member ✭✭✭
    Superbrew is a phenomenal activator. Works with most everything I have tried it on.
    I love Kansas Hydrographics for film because of their free shipping policy although I buy from most of the forum sponsors for different things. OHW paint is great because it works on metal and plastics with no primer needed. (HDPE needs flame treated though)
  • smedlinsmedlin Posts: 1,880Member, Business Ninja ✭✭✭✭✭
    bweidler said:

    Southern hydro sells activator called hydrovater. I see big brains also sells hydrovator. Are they the same?

    Yes, Hydrovator is probably the "primary" activator. Most people have it.

    Actually, most people have several activators. In time, you will learn that some films react better to different activators.

    @K2Concepts makes one called superbrew. It's "lean" compared to Hydrovator and seems to work better with heavy/dark colors. I've been working lately with some heavy ink film. Each time, I did two test with a speed shape, one with superbrew one with Hydrovator. Superbrew held the dark colors better each time.

    Conversely, my wife did a mostly clear pattern, the hydrovator worked better for that one.

  • bweidlerbweidler Posts: 9Member
    Great info! Glad I joined. I'll try the general section. Thanks!
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